Reducing Driver Spin

[Jules150]

Well i went to the simulator the other day and i got some intresting stats, . My r7 425 had 5500-5800 rpms with the weights neutral and high launch. Still too much spin. So we set it to neutral and low launch and got the spin to 4000-4400 rpm. Still more than needed. So my question is what do you guys think i should do? Would i see a dramtic increase in roll if i get the spin down to 3000? I've been considering re-shafting but most low spin shafts are low launch, and i dont really want to lower my launch. I guess Im pretty much asking if theres any ways of lowering spin without lowering launch?

[ezra76]

What are playing for a shaft?

[LyleG]

before buying a shaft to lower spin read this. Its from Tim Hewitt of myostrich golf, and he knows his stuff" (tim's stuff is in bold)

"The only way a shaft contributes to spin is in how much extra effective loft it adds at impact.

There is no such thing as a "low spin" or a "high spin" shaft.

If a shaft kicks forward at impact, the spin rate will go up because the effective loft goes up. If the shaft is too stiff to kick forward at impact, it will not add effective loft and will not add spin.

Shafts don't add or reduce spin on their own - only their impact on effective loft at impact results in changes in spin."

and then he added this

In order to keep the launch angle the same using an R and S flex shaft, you have to muck with the angle of attack. The relative loft with the R flex shaft will be higher than with the S flex shaft - particularly in a hitting robot which will have the same exact release point with every shot - unlike a golfer who rarely makes two identical swings out of twenty.

There is no inconsistency in this data with what I've stated.

Stiffer shafts reduce spin by simply reducing the effective loft at impact.

Here's one other quote from that same article:

Quote
2. Shaft flex. Consider the tip stability of a modern-engineered shaft. A proper-fitting shaft increases the likelihood that you'll make more on-center contact without adding loft at impact (which adds spin).

Proper fitting is of course what's emphasized here - as an improperly fit shaft (too soft) will add loft at impact and add spin.

As for the fancy new term called "Angle of descent" - any good fitter can tell you that you HAVE TO watch the ball fall out of the sky in order to understand what's happening during the flight of the ball and how to optimize distance.

We've used downrange assistants for a decade to do just this, and have advised golfers whom we are trying to "fit" over the phone or through email to do the same. You are looking for two basic differences in how the ball "falls from the sky" at the end of it's flight. The optimal ball flight is a nice, smooth curve to the ground from the apex of flight. What you don't want is to see the ball literlaly "fall from the sky" at the apex with no forward momentum if you are trying to optimize distance. You cannot see either of these from behind the ball - you have to be downrange.

You also don't want a flat ball flight that puts the ball on the ground too soon unless you are counting on bounce and roll on very hard fairways. The ground offers significant resistance to the ball compared to the air and optimization of distance does not mean counting on lots of roll for most of the country.

-t"

hope this helps

[warbirdlover]

And if all this fails, try a "low spin" ball. It might help. I would be curious to know your "launch angle" on the monitor. I had to drop to a 9º driver to get it into the 14-16º range and it dropped my spin rpm to 3,000 and gave me 260-280 carry distance.

[demon]

Get a shaft with a stiffer tip section or get a lower lofted driver. I am going to an 8.5 to lower my ballflight.

[LyleG]

Reading your post I notice a few things.

Your spin is way, way to high. Those are wedge numbers, not driver. IMO they are not the fault of equipment, unless you using a driver with 20 degrees of loft and a "L" flex shaft. You are most likely hitting down on the ball. Meaning you are swinging the driver with a descending blow. You need to hit the driver level, or preferably on the upswing, 1*-4* ideally.
Work on getting your left shoulder higher in your set-up, tee the ball a little higher as well, and lastly move it up in your stance a bit. This should all help getting the spin under control.

[Rockford35]

Lyle has it here. Your swing, most likely, is to fault moreso than a shaft or ball change.

Try this. Get out to the range/sim, and place a tee about 6" in front of the ball you want to drive. Concentrate on sweeping both the ball and the tee out front with the driver head. Start with 1/2 swings and move up as you gain some confidence.

You'll see better launch, lower spin and longer distances as a result. Once you achieve this, we'll start teaking your equipment.

Your golf equipment. Not your.....forget it....

Good luck,

R35

[Jules150]

Ezra- its the stock reax sitff

Lyle-Thanks for the info on spin with shafts, It may not make sense (it confused the hell out of me) but the guy was having me play the ball back in my stance with a downward blow to reduce the spin, something to do with my leading hand being strong(Im not sure if its strong or weak but its roatated to the right more than normal), anyway it didnt do anything and now im all screwed up cause im thinking about my grip. Anyway i have the ball just inside my right foot with 3/4s of it above the driver head so i think im doing most of what your saying, i'll work on the shoulders though.

wbl-I think its in the 14-17* range, i've considered using a lower spin ball, any suggestions? i use a pro-v 1x or nxt tour.


edit-wait, im confused, lyle one of your quotes says more loft make more spin, if im hitting with a descending blow like you and r35 are suggesting wouldnt i be lowering loft and reducing spin?

thanks

edit2- Demon i forgot to mention i also had a cleveland launcher comp 9.5 ys-6+ x flex and that had 5700-6000 rpms so i dont think its the flex or loft, im thinking more and more its my swing

[warbirdlover]

Can't remember but the Bridgestone E6, Topflite D2 Straight and many others....

[Rockford35]

Originally Posted by Jules150

edit-wait, im confused, lyle one of your quotes says more loft make more spin, if im hitting with a descending blow like you and r35 are suggesting wouldnt i be lowering loft and reducing spin?

thanks

When you make a descending blow on the ball, you impart more spin.

If you sweep a wedge, it goes up and down, with little spin and rolls when it hits the green. But, if you come down on it from a steeper angle, you impart more spin and it sticks on the green. The same thing goes with a driver, although the numbers are much higher in a wedge.

If you sweep the ball, you'll hit the face much flusher and won't generate near as much spin.

R35

[Garrett]

Put a little Vasoline on the face!

[Pullmeister]

Originally Posted by Jules150

Ezra- its the stock reax sitff



edit2- Demon i forgot to mention i also had a cleveland launcher comp 9.5 ys-6+ x flex and that had 5700-6000 rpms so i dont think its the flex or loft, im thinking more and more its my swing

My experience with the comp was somewhat similar . I found it to be a very high launching/spinning driver. Even a Prolite(highBP/stiff tip) couldnt knock the ball flight down. Other head designs lofted much lower for me even with softer shafts.

I also had similar poor results trying to bring the ball flight up(on a BB 2 Tour model 8degree loft) using a softer tipped shaft.

Imo a shaft change provides at best a modest improvement if a heads loft/spin characteristics are a poor match to the player.

FWIW my advice is to get a second opinion on your swing from someone
qualified.... and then start hoing drivers and shafts like everyone else here in this forum











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