Pull driver head?

[ezra76]

I'm itching to get the Epic into the Superquad. I have everything I need to install the shaft, just need to get the head off the Reax. Is there any way to do this if I care nothing about the shaft without a shaft puller? If I could get the thing off there I could have it ready to use on Sunday. Otherwise I'll have to have it pulled at the shop sometime next week. Regardless, I'm doing the install. I've used the 5W quite a few times and the head is on there well, unlike the shop with flying heads and ferrule creep.

[Rockford35]

If you don't care about the shaft, just cut it off with a hacksaw and drill it out of the head. You'll need a ferrule for the new shaft, as the drilling will kill it.

Then, just clean out the hosel as best you can and slap that thing in.

All good in the hood.

R35

[ezra76]

Ok. Might give it a go tomorrow. I have the ferrule for the new one, it's actually the TM adaptor ferrule.

[Rockford35]

Originally Posted by ezra76

Ok. Might give it a go tomorrow. I have the ferrule for the new one, it's actually the TM adaptor ferrule.

I have another one if you want it. (Long story).

R35

[ezra76]

Will direct heat hurt it? Can I just do it similar to the way I pull a wedgehead, on the stove? I took apart that fake R7 and the shaft got all twisted and I snapped it off but I'd be more careful with the SQ. Heat didn't leave any marks on the fake head.

Oh, and acetone is the SS as nail polish remover, right?

[LyleG]

Heat the POS up lol.

Heat wont hurt it. Cut the ferrule off, heat the hosel with either a torch or a heat gun for about 45 seconds. Wait a minute ir two for the heat to do its thing. Heat again for 45 seconds, and the head should slide right off.

[warbirdlover]

Torch could overheat it. Heat CAN hurt it if too high. Heat gun sounds better.

[charnockpro]

I have a great gadget built for me by a member, we have used a mini wallpaper steamer, connected up to a wooden box with a slide lid, you insert the club in there and let the steam do its work, it disfigures the ferrule (so cheap you can get new ones) but it has 100% success rate at getting shafts out intact. try it.

[clemsonhacker]

id like to see this work..

[charnockpro]

What the steam extraction?

[clemsonhacker]

yea..the steam extraction

[charnockpro]

why, do you not believe me?

[Rockford35]

Charnock,

I'd like to see this too.

Maybe I'm using old math, but the breakdown temp of most epoxies is about 250*. Water boils at 100*, far short of what you'd need to break down the epoxy.

Is it a pressurized system?

I'm not questioning your motives here, I'm more intrigued than anything.

R35

[Pa Jayhawk]

Rock,
I believe your are doing one in C and the other in F. Water boils at 212* F (100* C), Where as epoxy breaks down at 250* F. Or many, myself included, feel that some of the epoxys breaks down much earlier, like that of the trunk of a car. As I have seen it happen numerous times, and heard it from numerous clubmakers. Probably just cheaper epoxy, or extended exposure???

At least not that far off. You inclose that in any kind of box (even not pressurized) and it may exceed 212*. Any kind of pressure and it will likely exceed 250* F

[Rockford35]

Originally Posted by Pa Jayhawk

At least not that far off. You inclose that in any kind of box (even not pressurized) and it may exceed 212*. Any kind of pressure and it will likely exceed 250* F

This is what I was getting at. I was too lazy to do the conversion for the epoxy into Celcius, so I just went with the numbers.

The idea of good, solid epoxy breaking down in the trunk of a car is a myth. It might happen with cheap stuff, but much of what's out there for clubmaking exceeds 250*F for safety reasons alone.

The idea of using a steam box is interesting, but I'd like to hear more before I build one of my own.

R35