Graphite or steel shafts?

[jskd82]

Ok so i think I am going to go with the Adams Idea a2 OS set of clubs but should I get graphite shafts or steel? there's a few choices like and Aldila NV or a graphalloy or a true temper steel.....So what's better? steel or graphite? my Wal Mart clubs I have now are steel shafts.... I hit a 6 iron about 170 - 180 yards......what type of flex would I need, stiff or regular? Thanks

[SilverUberXeno]

Your swing speed determines the flex of your shaft, generally. If you really wanna go all the way, get fitted for shafts in your irons, and lie angle as well. If you strike the ball in such a way that you hit high, you can get shafts that knock it down a little.

I would personally ALWAYS go graphite, but it's much lighter in most cases. Certain people prefer the stability and weight of steel while swinging a golf club. For example, a steel shaft might weigh 130g, while the ALDILA NV in my driver is 65g.

Dicks Sporting Goods will fit you completely for like 30$. It's worthwhile.

[jskd82]

Thanks for the quick reply....unfortunately there aren't any golfsmiths in my area but i'll be traveling to another island this weekend so I will go and see if i can find someone who can fit me with some clubs.... Does graphite flex way more than steel?

[Eracer]

Graphite doesn't flex more than steel. All shafts flex differently depending on the construction. Steel shafts tend to be more accurate, while graphite shafts can add distance and cut down on wrist and elbow stress by absorbing some of the vibration.

I use steel shafts, and I'm very happy with them. I hit my 6-iron 160 yards, and I'm using regular shafts. You could probably handle True Temper Dynamic Gold S300 (stiff) shafts with no problem. If you tend to hit the ball low, I would look at the Dynalite Gold S300. They have a more active tip section and help increase launch angle.

There is a big trend these days towards making light, or superlight steel shafts. Some of them are as light as graphite. So if you like a light shaft (I don't, personally) then you have some options that will give you the weight of graphite with the stability of steel.

[goatster]

myself i prefer steel in everything except the driver.i like the heft of steel plus i think it adds a little accuracy.

at the moment i dont use woods i use hybrids instead and i have steel stiff in those.im just more worried about accuracy then distance.

[Sandy]

Originally Posted by jskd82

I hit a 6 iron about 170 - 180 yards......what type of flex would I need, stiff or regular? Thanks

Try and find out the lofts of your current clubs before you start making comparisons too.

You could get fitted for your perfect set of irons and abandon them because you find you hit the 6i less than your cheap Wal Mart set, but the reality could be your old set has jacked up lofts that are giving you extra distance.

Compare the irons you like by their loft and not the number on their sole!

[jskd82]

Thanks..... I don't really care about distance as I would rather be accurate.... so i think i'll stick with steel. I'm gonna go to a few golf shops in Honolulu and see if I can find someone who does fitting. BTW any thoughts on the ADAMS a2 OS clubs? Thanks.

[Adam Pettman]

Forgiving and quite cheap clubs. Also they're made by a company with a great name.

[demon]

Originally Posted by jskd82

Thanks..... I don't really care about distance as I would rather be accurate.... so i think i'll stick with steel. I'm gonna go to a few golf shops in Honolulu and see if I can find someone who does fitting. BTW any thoughts on the ADAMS a2 OS clubs? Thanks.

If you want to go accurate go with X flex in steel. This will cut down on dispersion and give you the most accuracy you can get with a steel shaft. Dont worry if you are only swinging about 97mph with your driver (this is my guesstimate with your distance on a 6 iron).

[jskd82]

I don't really swing my clubs as hard as I could because I am just trying to get a feel for them and just swing smoothly and softer..... If I swing harder my ball usually goes all over the place...... and thanks for the thumbs up on the Adams set, I figure that this set comes with hybrids and if I were to purchase hybrids alone it would probably cost me a couple hundred bucks so for $400 I can get a whole new set of irons and hybrids. Thanks.

[Eracer]

Originally Posted by demon

If you want to go accurate go with X flex in steel. This will cut down on dispersion and give you the most accuracy you can get with a steel shaft. Dont worry if you are only swinging about 97mph with your driver (this is my guesstimate with your distance on a 6 iron).

Huh ?!?!?!?!?

X-Flex for a 97mph swinger? Are you kidding me?

I went from S300's to R300's and went from a 140-yard 7-iron to a 150-yard 7-iron. X-flex would give me what - 130 yards (or less) with my 7-iron?

No thanks. BTW - my driver swing speed is about 92-95.

[demon]

Originally Posted by Eracer

Huh ?!?!?!?!?

X-Flex for a 97mph swinger? Are you kidding me?

I went from S300's to R300's and went from a 140-yard 7-iron to a 150-yard 7-iron. X-flex would give me what - 130 yards (or less) with my 7-iron?

No thanks. BTW - my driver swing speed is about 92-95.

X flex will give you greater accuracy, doesnt matter what swing speed you have.

[Eracer]

Originally Posted by demon

X flex will give you greater accuracy, doesnt matter what swing speed you have.

So will throwing the ball. Doesn't mean it's a good idea.

[ezra76]

Originally Posted by demon

X flex will give you greater accuracy, doesnt matter what swing speed you have.

I disagree. He's between and R and an S. Give him X100's and he'll never get the ball off the ground and be blocking them right like crazy.

[demon]

Originally Posted by ezra76

I disagree. He's between and R and an S. Give him X100's and he'll never get the ball off the ground and be blocking them right like crazy.

Lots of debate on this issue, but if you are blocking shots right I beleive this is going to be a swing flaw or a too weak of a shaft flaw. I personally do not think a shaft could be too stiff only too weak. A weak shaft could cause a block or a fade depending on your swing path and rotation. If you were on the proper swing path bringing the the club head square to impact then you should have minimal shaft deflection at impact giving you the most square position at impact. The reason why you would lose distance would be due to minimizing the whip effect the shaft has on the ball, but if a shaft is too whippy then you actually lose distance since the shaft might not reach its whip effect through the ball and just past the ball causing you the head to either block a shot, fade the shot, and or deloft the shot and forget about it if you hit it on the heel or toe.

Could be wrong, but it makes sense to me.