Recap of my first shaft install...

[Johnny Par]

Stayed up until 2:30am. So tried this morning. :real angry:

BUT, I installed the shaft last night, Accuflex Evolution Lite in the Burner TP 9.5* head.

A couple things that stood out:

a. Installing ferrules are a PITA (even with the T handle installer).
b. Not sure if I measured the club length properly. I had a 48 inch ruler and tried my best to make sure the club with sitting flat.
c. Epoxy was a disaster. probably because I simply rolled the tip in the epoxy instaed of using a mixing stick or Q tip.
d. I was only able to find the neutral position of the shaft. The instructions that came with the spine tool says that I should be looking for neutral 1, neutral 2, spine 1 and spine 2. I simply found neutral and made sure it was pointing down the target line.
e. I really hope the head stays on!!! LOL. I guess we'll find out.

If any of the clubmakers here can share some insight / tips, it would be greatly appreciated.

It doesn't even have to pertain to the above, just curious what you guys do to make the job easier, etc...

Let's see, what's on the list tonight? possibly swapping the Prolaunch Blue from the R5 and installing into the R7. V2 inthe R7 into the R5.

Can't wait for this Diamana Blueboard to arrive.:laugh:

[clemsonhacker]

this makes me want to but a shaft puller....esp. b/c i have 2 shafts just laying around and 2 more on the way from lyle

[BuildEmBetterThenISwingEm]

time to change that sig... i did some shaft swapping myself yesterday. its tuff to just throw tips out when not specific but ull really find ur own groove once you doa cuple clubs but ill give you my agenda when building.
1) pull shaft with mitchell puller and mini bernzomatic butane torch clean inside head with brush/ sand paper and scrape off any extra glue left on shaft with a straight edge blade

2) when epoxying back together i usually make sure i have evrything ready becuz i use quick dry glue in the saringe liek tube. make sure tips prepped including scraping some shaft that will be under the ferrel so it doesnt raise up on ya and make sure the heads clean. cut up some small sized paper towels for quick wipe rags with acetone or rubbing alchohol in a squirt bottle.

3) squirt out epoxy and mix with toothpick or golf tee when available for more durability. mix it good get some glue on the shaft where the ferrel will be. slide on ferrel lil but not all the way. glue in the head and a lil more ont he shaft then just slide the head on to set the ferrel in place and wipe clean with alchohol rags.

4) if spined or pured line up correctly and let sit. make sure the ferrel is sitting flush on hosel and there isnt any glue sticking out. when finished drying you can turn down the ferrel so its flush to the OD of hosel by putting club in vise and gettin a rag with a good amount of acetone on it and just buffing the ferrel back and forth. the acetone will eat at the plastic and wear it down so it looks flush and clean with the hosel.

5) grip it and rip it!!!

i thinks thats how i do it and has worked pretty well for me for a couple years. good luck and hope this helps.

keith

[BuildEmBetterThenISwingEm]

yeah clemson i bought the most expensive puller (285 shipped) from mitchell becuz it was the same one we used on the shop i worked at and was familiar with it. well worth the money already and only had it for about a month so far... reshafted R7 xds 3-p which would have cost me $160 just for labor not including thr shafts or grips at the local golfers warehouse. and have also re shafted or swapped shafts in three of my woods which would have cost 20 bux a club. so i think its well worth the money if u think ull use it enough and if confident enough to pull ur 150 dollar shafts....

[Johnny Par]

this makes me want to but a shaft puller....esp. b/c i have 2 shafts just laying around and 2 more on the way from lyle

This is the main reason why I bought the tools. I had shafts laying around wanted to try them all out but didn't want to drive 20 minutes to Golfsmtih to drop them off. Basically, I'm impatient. :laugh:

I bought JB's hydraulic puller off eBay. WOW, this thing works like a charm, well worth the $160.

[Johnny Par]

time to change that sig... i did some shaft swapping myself yesterday. its tuff to just throw tips out when not specific but ull really find ur own groove once you doa cuple clubs but ill give you my agenda when building.
1) pull shaft with mitchell puller and mini bernzomatic butane torch clean inside head with brush/ sand paper and scrape off any extra glue left on shaft with a straight edge blade

2) when epoxying back together i usually make sure i have evrything ready becuz i use quick dry glue in the saringe liek tube. make sure tips prepped including scraping some shaft that will be under the ferrel so it doesnt raise up on ya and make sure the heads clean. cut up some small sized paper towels for quick wipe rags with acetone or rubbing alchohol in a squirt bottle.

3) squirt out epoxy and mix with toothpick or golf tee when available for more durability. mix it good get some glue on the shaft where the ferrel will be. slide on ferrel lil but not all the way. glue in the head and a lil more ont he shaft then just slide the head on to set the ferrel in place and wipe clean with alchohol rags.

4) if spined or pured line up correctly and let sit. make sure the ferrel is sitting flush on hosel and there isnt any glue sticking out. when finished drying you can turn down the ferrel so its flush to the OD of hosel by putting club in vise and gettin a rag with a good amount of acetone on it and just buffing the ferrel back and forth. the acetone will eat at the plastic and wear it down so it looks flush and clean with the hosel.

5) grip it and rip it!!!

i thinks thats how i do it and has worked pretty well for me for a couple years. good luck and hope this helps.

keith

Awesome tips Buildem. I will have to remember to take some acetone tongiht and wipe around the ferrule hosel area so it is flush.

How long should I let the club sit before hitting? 24 hours? I used this stuff: CLUBMAKER'S EPOXY KIT

The Graphite Shaft Epoxy. I don't even know what the others are for or what the difference is.

BTW, Golfsmith is having a 15% off sale and free shipping. I am sooooooooooooooooooooooooo tempted to buy that clubmaker's station.

[clemsonhacker]

buy it now....buy it...

[BuildEmBetterThenISwingEm]

Golfsmith.com: Clubmaker this station? the clubmakers station is alright. to tell u the truth i only use the gripping vise for for the price u pretty much get that measuring table thing for free just about becuz most places sell that gripping vise for like 75-80 bux. once i get a nice lil enclosed trailer where i will be doing most of my repair work id liek to have a air compressor set up so i can get a foot pedal remote system like this Mitchell Golf Equipment Company to make griping a breeze!!! and yeah the acetone is used more and more for turning down ferrels, not many people use the ferrel turner on the belt sander. acetones easier and a lot less dusty/messy!!! good luck and if any more questions just shott me a holla! hit em straight

keith

[ezra76]

Here's tip for the ferrules. Heat some water up in the microwave, take it out and drop the ferrule in there for a minute. Take it out and it'll slide up the shaft a lot easier. Now take the head, put the shaft in and simply push it down in and get the ferrule in position. Supereasy when you do it this way. After that I just put a little expoxy down in the hosel, roll the tip in it, insert and use a tissue or whatever to wipe the excess off the hosel/ferrule.

BTW - hot water works for almost any ferrule. I've slid them up and saved them off wedges, irons and graphite shafted woods. They usually slide right up using just my fingers.

Just thought of another one. I saved the stock shaft out of my Superquad to measure against. That length = 45" installed, so when I did the shafts for that club and the Burner I simply went off that for 45" or a little more or less.

[clemsonhacker]

ezra thats the same way i do mine too...so easy

[Johnny Par]

Here's tip for the ferrules. Heat some water up in the microwave, take it out and drop the ferrule in there for a minute. Take it out and it'll slide up the shaft a lot easier. Now take the head, put the shaft in and simply push it down in and get the ferrule in position. Supereasy when you do it this way. After that I just put a little expoxy down in the hosel, roll the tip in it, insert and use a tissue or whatever to wipe the excess off the hosel/ferrule.

BTW - hot water works for almost any ferrule. I've slid them up and saved them off wedges, irons and graphite shafted woods. They usually slide right up using just my fingers.

Just thought of another one. I saved the stock shaft out of my Superquad to measure against. That length = 45" installed, so when I did the shafts for that club and the Burner I simply went off that for 45" or a little more or less.

Awesome. I actually have a diamana shaft that came with my Nike Sumo which I can use as a reference.

Will try out the ferrule hot water tip. Thanks.