Restoring Putters

[wirehair]

I've seen a couple of folks ask about putter refinishing lately so I thought I'd post what I know:

The custom shop is hands down the best place for either a rare/special putter or a basket case. They're expensive, but first class all the way - be prepared for a total round trip including TT&L of about $185 for a solid putter, a TeI3 costs more. add another $50 or so. Scotty includes a new shaft, band, grip & Headcover in his price. Scotty can be expensive. A TeI3, pro-platted with premium grip & HC and a stamp, or signtline/dot can go north of $400. But it'll be exquisite when it's returned to you.

In general Scotty will only re-apply the same finish that was originally on it. Exceptions are Black Pearl, they're putting Charcoal mist on black pearl putters now. They'll put Pro-Plat on any putter, they require a custom shop stamp (add $30) on any putter. Send them a beater & in 45 days you'll a brand new putter. Here's a couple of putters that were real basket cases when I got them.
Hook 'Em
Newport 2 Oilcan


Scotty used to use BOS for Gun Blue and OilCan finishes (those are Scotty's names for them), then he didn't. BOS calls those same finishes Black Oxide and Patina Oil.

A couple of years ago, after switching from BOS, there were a series of quality issues with OilCan finishes where the finish wore badly and very quickly. I speculate that he's gone back to BOS - don't know. You'll hear folks takling about the "old OilCan" finishes, that was BOS. I've had at least 4 different OilCan finishes.

1. Original from 1998
2. Scotty Refinish (OLD Oilcan - from BOS)
3. Scotty Refinish (NEW Oilcan)
4. Very Recent.

1. 2, and 4 are similar. 3 is lighter and more colorful.

GunBlue is black Oxide - BOS is hands down the best I know about, and I speculate that they do the finishes for lots of smaller resto folks, but they won't say for obvious reasons. I can't tell the difference in GB refinishes from BOS or the custom Shop. Original GB is very different. 3X black is also gun-blue, the difference is in the prep, its media blasted before the finish is applied to cut glare.

BOS will remill the face if you ask, but they refinish, they don't restore. There is a difference. The critical part is surface prep. BOS does not do as good a job as Scotty, I do my own surface prep, but learned the hard way. This is a longneck done by BOS, I sent it in without prepping the surface, the finish they applied was great, but notice the pitting under the finish. They don't do pro-plat finishes but will put any of their finishes on. They're about $45 for a putter, if face milling is needed add another $45.
Longneck border

Kevin Colbert (putterplating.com) made his rep with Pro-Plat finishes, calls it Satin Nickel. I don't know who does it for him, but I know he doesn't do it himself. Kevin does good work, but can be slow - be prepared for a 3 month turnaround. Kevin can chemically strip an old ProPlat finish, it's a reverse electro plating process & is difficult. He can put any finish on any putter. Here's my current gamer from Kevin.
B-Back

If you're thinking aftermarket, consider George Palombi (geoputters). He'll do the prep work & get it finished, George is universally considered the best "putter mechanic" you'll find. He's a mod at puttertalk.com and a well respected member there. George has done some stuff for me that Scotty turned down. This one was turned down by Scotty because the insert was badly damaged. George fixed the insert and BOS refinished. He also supplied that Loomis Shaft.
TeI3 Longneck

Tom Slighter will restore putters, but I haven't had any done by him. He's supposed to be very good.

Both BOS and Slighter have had some issues in the past dealing with improperly using Scotty stamps on putters. I think both have mended their ways, but many older collectors still really object to aftermarket work of any kind because of this. In addition, lots of newer guys have picked up on this aversion and aftermarket refinished putters have a lower resale value. There seems to be a perception that aftermarket work is synonymous with low quality, I don't subscribe to this belief, but good prep work is the key to a restoration.

In terms of cost, compare apples to apples. A BOS refinish of your Circa with face milling will run you about $100 including 2 way shipping. If you add Scotty shaft, grip & HC, you'll be pretty close to Scottys base cost. If all you need is refinishing, do your own head prep, no remilling, and can reuse your shaft, grip & HC, you'll save yourself a Benjamin. You also have more flexibility in terms of what finish goes on a putter aftermarket. here's a couple more that BOS did for me.
Antique Torched Newport
Blue Torched Laguna

That's my story & I'm sticking to it. Hope this helps.

Steve

[Eracer]

Wow! What a detailed and thorough report. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.

[kwcsports]

Thanks for the info. Beautiful putters.

[VtDivot]

Great info thanks!

When my Slighter needs refinishing it will be going back to Seattle. I'll let you know what kind of refinish work Tom does.

[ualtim]

OK, I have a question for you, wirehair. I have a Studio Stainless Newport Beach I am seriously debating on having refinished (bought it with an aftermarket black finish and hate the way it filled in the mill marks on the face), but would also want to have the hosel removed and replaced with a center shaft/zero offset hosel (preferably in .370 for shafting options.) I know Slighter will do this kind of work, but does anyone else do it that you would reccomend?

OK, I lied, question #2: Is there a black finish that is maintenance free? (ie: no need for an oil cloth.) I love the black finishes, but with the humidity down here it can get to rusting fairly quickly.

[Sandpiper3]

Great post wirehair, thx a lot of the breakdown.

The ho in me is wanting to try Slighter so much, but my SC works great. Damn all these putters/customizing putter threads!

tim, I say send it in to Slighter, I'd love to see how that'd look.

[JEFF4i]

Good stuff Wire, thanks!

[tlayton]

I've got a SC Laguna Midslant...Could they take some of the angle off the face of the club...It's a little much and my ball tends to jump off the clubface.

Also, it was an original Pro-Plat finish so if I wanted an oil can finish on it, who would you recommend?

Very cool "Hook em" putter too!

[wirehair]

Tlayton:
Specs should be 71 and 4. Scotty prefers 4 degrees to get the ball out of the depression the ball is sitting in and rolling. Your Dunlop might have been less than 4 or your Laguna might have been bent by a 7 year old playing putt-putt. That Laguna is carbon steel & pretty easy to bend, so get the loft & lie checked by a professional with an accurate loft/lie machine.

As far as refinish, I wouldn't spend the money to put an oilcan on a pro-plat laguna. Any of those guys I talked about can remove pro-plat finishes, but they charge extra for it.

[ualtim]

Originally Posted by ualtim

OK, I have a question for you, wirehair. I have a Studio Stainless Newport Beach I am seriously debating on having refinished (bought it with an aftermarket black finish and hate the way it filled in the mill marks on the face), but would also want to have the hosel removed and replaced with a center shaft/zero offset hosel (preferably in .370 for shafting options.) I know Slighter will do this kind of work, but does anyone else do it that you would reccomend?

OK, I lied, question #2: Is there a black finish that is maintenance free? (ie: no need for an oil cloth.) I love the black finishes, but with the humidity down here it can get to rusting fairly quickly.

Any advise for me on the hosel change, wirehair?

[tlayton]

Originally Posted by wirehair

Tlayton:
Specs should be 71 and 4. Scotty prefers 4 degrees to get the ball out of the depression the ball is sitting in and rolling. Your Dunlop might have been less than 4 or your Laguna might have been bent by a 7 year old playing putt-putt. That Laguna is carbon steel & pretty easy to bend, so get the loft & lie checked by a professional with an accurate loft/lie machine.

As far as refinish, I wouldn't spend the money to put an oilcan on a pro-plat laguna. Any of those guys I talked about can remove pro-plat finishes, but they charge extra for it.

Thanks for the tip. I see your point about the oil can finish but on Kevin Colbert's site it looks like to me that it would still be cheaper than the custom shop. I'm prob gonna do a engraving too.

[chemboy2]

Wirehair - Any experience/feedback regarding the BOS 2xBlack or Satin Black Oxide finishes on Studio Styles? A guy over at golfwrx just posted some shots of a Studio Style (not sure which finish though) and it looks sweet.

[wirehair]

Chembo: I've not done it, but I understand that Black OX on stainless will get chalky and/or flake off over a relatively short time (a year or so). It's not generally recommended.

Tim: I believe George Palombi is another option. If I were doing that, I'd check with George, but I've got history with him & haven't had experience with Slighter.

You might also price it, it might be cheaper to sell the SS & buy a center shafted putter. Remember, the neck/hosel adds to the weight & removing them will significantly change the balance. This could be your opportunity to justify that custom Slighter, mebbe a Bett or Mills.

[ualtim]

Originally Posted by wirehair

Tim: I believe George Palombi is another option. If I were doing that, I'd check with George, but I've got history with him & haven't had experience with Slighter.

You might also price it, it might be cheaper to sell the SS & buy a center shafted putter. Remember, the neck/hosel adds to the weight & removing them will significantly change the balance. This could be your opportunity to justify that custom Slighter, mebbe a Bett or Mills.

Thanks, wirehair. Changing the balance is one of the things I am actually shooting for by going center hosel. I would also require some weight gain to bring the headweight up to 355g so I would have to see if that was possible as well.

[chemboy2]

Originally Posted by wirehair

Chembo: I've not done it, but I understand that Black OX on stainless will get chalky and/or flake off over a relatively short time (a year or so). It's not generally recommended.

Thank you much. Hmm, it sounds like I'm going to just have to buy a completely new putter if I want the dark finish. Gee, that's a bummer...