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Old 01-01-2008, 01:27 PM
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Epoxy?

For those who like to build clubs and reshaft irons, what type of Epoxy do you use? I have used Golfsmith Tour Van and never had any issues with it, but have never used beaded epoxy. Should I be?

Does it matter how long the epoxy needs to set for and by that I mean the Tour Van stuff from Golfsmith is mean to be ready ASAP and the stuff I am looking at from Golfworks needs to set for 24 Hours. Is one better than the other?

This is what I am looking at from Golfworks...

ULTIMATE FLEX EPOXY
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Old 01-01-2008, 01:49 PM
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I have used Golfsmith epoxy from the 24 hour set down to the Tour Van 10 minute set and have never had an epoxy issue. I usually keep a tube of Tour Van around for single clubs and/or reshaft jobs if the club is going to be played the next day. If doing an iron set or multiple clubs I will use their 30-60 epoxy. I prefer a faster set time so that I can set the clubs up in the orientation I want them in and have them set soon after.

I have read articles stating the longer set time epoxy sets up polymer chains that are stronger than the quick set time epoxy, but I have yet to have any issues with the shorter set time epoxy since I started building clubs back in 1995. The shorter time allows me to work on the clubs for gripping in the same day which saves me from having to find time for the club work on two different days.
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:13 PM
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I use the Golfsmith epoxy with shafting beads in it. It comes out with the 2 seperate chambers and you mix it. The only issue I ever had was the Epic when the tip cracked. I usually put them together in the evening and hit them in the AM. So they get about 12-15hours of set time. I also leave them over the top of the gas heater in my LR with the door shut to the room. So they are sitting in about an 80* environment with dry heat.

Actually, there is an issue... pulling one of these shafts afterwords. That stuff is very resiliant and takes some heat to break it down. So I'd probably not use it on an "experimental" install, it'll be a b!tch to pull afterwords.
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:54 PM
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What about the stuff with the shafting beads? At what point do I need to use that? I have always used the faster setting epoxy without beads. Is there any advantage to it? I thought it was only if I was going to be shimming the shaft tip....thanks all!
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Old 01-01-2008, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ualtim View Post
I have used Golfsmith epoxy from the 24 hour set down to the Tour Van 10 minute set and have never had an epoxy issue. I usually keep a tube of Tour Van around for single clubs and/or reshaft jobs if the club is going to be played the next day. If doing an iron set or multiple clubs I will use their 30-60 epoxy. I prefer a faster set time so that I can set the clubs up in the orientation I want them in and have them set soon after.

I have read articles stating the longer set time epoxy sets up polymer chains that are stronger than the quick set time epoxy, but I have yet to have any issues with the shorter set time epoxy since I started building clubs back in 1995. The shorter time allows me to work on the clubs for gripping in the same day which saves me from having to find time for the club work on two different days.
Excellent!

We also on all orders put clubs in a hot box to cure.....it not only accelerates the bonding time...but also the bond strength.

As far as shafting beads go...many people use them with EVERY shaft job they do.

We tend to shy away from it when ever possible.

New assemblys usually NEVER require it...but if it's a re-shaft, re-using a shaft it's usually advisable to use shaft beads...it's kind of a judggement call.

However, for a hobbiest, buying shafting beads is a waste of $$$ go use grnulated sgar....works just as well.
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indacup View Post
We also on all orders put clubs in a hot box to cure.....it not only accelerates the bonding time...but also the bond strength.

I use a hot box, too. Down here in Florida, we call it a "garage". Any room not temperature controlled (air conditioned) gets a little warm down here except for about 3 weeks a year. Since the garage doubles as my golf works shop, I can sweat off a few pounds while working on my clubs during the hot months (although I always seem to find a way to put those pounds back on. )
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Crooked Cat + Crooked Driver = Crooked numbers on the card.

Taylor Made R5 TP 9.5*, Mitsubishi Diamana Blue Board S83 Stiff aka "Rodney"
Wishon 949MC 16.5* 4W, Aerotech Steel Fiber SS75 Stiff
Bobby Jones H3-21*, H4-25*. Graphite Design JS-7 Stiff
Ping i10 5-PW, UW, SW, LW, Z-Z65 Stiff, WRX Custom TS Grind PW-LW .
Rife 2 Bar Black Mallet. 33" 150g TLP back weight.

-----------------------------------
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-----------------------------------
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