Cally FT-I Tour LCG HELP!!!!

[LeftyHoges]

OK, so I need to reshaft my FT-I LCG. I've drilled out what I feel to be most of the old shaft but I can only insert another shaft in to 1 & 1/8 of an inch. Surely the hosel has to be deeper than that????? Do I need to get more out of there somehow?

The other thing is as this is a .350 head, and I plan to put an Accuflex Creation in there, is a normal GolfWorks .335 to .350 shim going to work or do I need a special adapter?

Thanks in advance guys.
LH

[BigJim13]

As far as the hosel depth, it seems shallow but with no hosel that may be just the way it is. I wouldn't know for sure, Rock would though. Shoot him a PM if he doesn't see this thread, he helped me out when I was reshafting an FT-5.

As far as a shim, you can't use a regular shim, you need a special Cally shim/adaptor, like the one I linked. The replacement sleeve is for .350 shafts and the adaptor is for .335 shafts.

CALLAWAY ADAPTORS

I have one sitting on my desk, a .335 adaptor, and they work pretty slick. If for some reason you need one just cover the shipping and its yours.

[ManchesterGolfer]

As Jim say's, that seems shallow you may need to grow some balls and DRILL it out or buy a decent drill/drill bit!!! The Callaway s2h2 adaptor's are normally on the bay and they come in a choice of tip sizes.

[LeftyHoges]

Thanks Jim, may very well take you up on that if I can't find one here in Australia (which could be very interesting). I'm hoping that Rock will chime in, he's the first I thought of too when posting this....

MG - I'm more than happy to keep drilling the hell out of this thing but there's something yellow in the bottom that I'm assuming is the hosel plug. I'd hate to go through that if its important in this club... :laugh:

[BigJim13]

Thanks Jim, may very well take you up on that if I can't find one here in Australia (which could be very interesting). I'm hoping that Rock will chime in, he's the first I thought of too when posting this....

MG - I'm more than happy to keep drilling the hell out of this thing but there's something yellow in the bottom that I'm assuming is the hosel plug. I'd hate to go through that if its important in this club... :laugh:

If it is just the hosel plug, should be no problem to the club if you go through it. I've done it before and can easily be fixed by finding a tack and sliding it into the hosel. That is unless you have hosel plugs available. The tack acts just like the hosel plug and once you put the epoxy and shaft in, the tack won't move. (I'm talking about a thumbtack, not a pushpin)

It could also be a shaft plug. I have pulled a bunch of OEM heads lately and almost ALL of them have a shaft plug in them, to keep the epoxy from going up the shaft. Great idea but can be a PITA when pulling the head and finding the plug stuck in the hosel.

[ManchesterGolfer]

Thanks Jim, may very well take you up on that if I can't find one here in Australia (which could be very interesting). I'm hoping that Rock will chime in, he's the first I thought of too when posting this....

MG - I'm more than happy to keep drilling the hell out of this thing but there's something yellow in the bottom that I'm assuming is the hosel plug. I'd hate to go through that if its important in this club... :laugh:

You can always turn it into a DIY Bore Through!!!

[LeftyHoges]

If it is just the hosel plug, should be no problem to the club if you go through it. I've done it before and can easily be fixed by finding a tack and sliding it into the hosel. That is unless you have hosel plugs available. The tack acts just like the hosel plug and once you put the epoxy and shaft in, the tack won't move. (I'm talking about a thumbtack, not a pushpin)

It could also be a shaft plug. I have pulled a bunch of OEM heads lately and almost ALL of them have a shaft plug in them, to keep the epoxy from going up the shaft. Great idea but can be a PITA when pulling the head and finding the plug stuck in the hosel.

Some great advice there Jim, will definitely keep that in mind if I do go through the thing.

You can always turn it into a DIY Bore Through!!!

I'm just thinking I could do it and say it's a once off tour version made for Phil mickelson because he liked the bore-thru when he came from Titleist. Sell it for a mint over on WRX!!! great idea!

Just saw on golfworks they have a face/lie angle adapter. As this is a draw version when I actually wanted a neutral could this help me at all? Anyone know?

[ManchesterGolfer]

Some great advice there Jim, will definitely keep that in mind if I do go through the thing.



I'm just thinking I could do it and say it's a once off tour version made for Phil mickelson because he liked the bore-thru when he came from Titleist. Sell it for a mint over on WRX!!! great idea!

Just saw on golfworks they have a face/lie angle adapter. As this is a draw version when I actually wanted a neutral could this help me at all? Anyone know?

I've heard of a Tour Clock Ferule which opens or closes the face depending on how you insert it when your building the club...sounds like the same thing. You could crank it Open to counter effect the Draw weighting make it 'Neutral' that way.

[LeftyHoges]

I've heard of a Tour Clock Ferule which opens or closes the face depending on how you insert it when your building the club...sounds like the same thing. You could crank it Open to counter effect the Draw weighting make it 'Neutral' that way.

I've heard of those too but I thought they were just for the FT-9. I could be wrong though, and hope i am.

[ManchesterGolfer]

I've heard of those too but I thought they were just for the FT-9. I could be wrong though, and hope i am.

I think they are for any Cally s2h2 style ferule/hosel driver.

[LeftyHoges]

I think they are for any Cally s2h2 style ferule/hosel driver.

Interesting, will certainly have to check this out, thanks very much mate!

[Rockford35]

The FT-i is 1&1/4 bore depth. The adaptor makes up the difference.

See this image of an FT-3. Same difference:



You need the adaptor. No way around it. Get a .335 tip adaptor, scuff the inside of it up, as well as the outside, then throw a little epoxy on the tip of the shaft and slide on the adaptor.

I should note, make sure that the adaptor will slide over the shaft without too much effort. Not loose, but it should be able to allow the shaft to get to total bore depth without coming up short, but shouldn't be loose so that it's rendered useless. This will take some measuring of the bore in the head, adding the "ferrule" part of the adaptor and removing the paint and clear coat from that area to accomodate the adaptor.

Be sure that the "lip" of the bore that seats the adaptor has been cleaned and will seat perfectly with the top of the head. I use a little rubbing alcohol in the bore to clean out any dust and what have you. Let it dry.

Throw the adaptor on with some epoxy, then inside the head and the tip and insert. If you have an adaptor that allows you to open or close the face, have this marked beforehand. Makes your life alot easier. Seat the adaptor in the head and let dry. Throw on a grip and start swinging.



I may have done this once before, i can't remember.

If you have specifics, let me know. It's an easy process if you are patient and take time to measure and check off what needs to be done before epoxy.

R35

[LeftyHoges]

Thanks very much Rock, at least I know I can stop drilling now... :laugh:

OK, so does the adapter from Golfworks (this one) work well for changing face angle? As this is a draw model FT-i is the face closed or is it internal weighting that makes it so? If its face angle then I would like to get this at least to square or maybe 1* open like my Burner TP. Possible?

Also, is acetone the same as rubbing alcohol?

I think from the process that you've explained I should be able to do this without too much hassle.

SOOOOOOOO, does anyone live near a golfworks that could get one of these for me and just whack it in envelope for cheapest postage? I'd reimburse of course.

And finally, I'm tossing up between putting in the Creation 65S and the Matrix Ozik Code 8X. Is there any reason why either one would better in this head, or will they both work great / bad, depending on my swing?

Thanks
LH

[Rockford35]

Thanks very much Rock, at least I know I can stop drilling now... :laugh:

OK, so does the adapter from Golfworks (this one) work well for changing face angle? As this is a draw model FT-i is the face closed or is it internal weighting that makes it so? If its face angle then I would like to get this at least to square or maybe 1* open like my Burner TP. Possible?

All LCG's sit 0.5* open (or, square). If you want to open the face, I don't understand why you'd want a draw head in the first place. Just buy the regular adaptor, not the adjustable one.

Also, is acetone the same as rubbing alcohol?

Absolutely not. Don't use acetone on your clubs unless you want to buy new ones. It's used for cleaning, turning ferrules and paint removal. And huffing.

SOOOOOOOO, does anyone live near a golfworks that could get one of these for me and just whack it in envelope for cheapest postage? I'd reimburse of course.

And finally, I'm tossing up between putting in the Creation 65S and the Matrix Ozik Code 8X. Is there any reason why either one would better in this head, or will they both work great / bad, depending on my swing?

Thanks
LH

I'd get you one and send it, but with postage to me and then to you, it'd be big coin. Hopefully someone that lives near a GS or GW will chime in.

Those are two really different shafts. That 8X will be extremely heavy in that head. The Creation in the FT-i is a good combo, but it's not for everyone. It gets my vote.

R35

[LeftyHoges]

All LCG's sit 0.5* open (or, square). If you want to open the face, I don't understand why you'd want a draw head in the first place. Just buy the regular adaptor, not the adjustable one.



Absolutely not. Don't use acetone on your clubs unless you want to buy new ones. It's used for cleaning, turning ferrules and paint removal. And huffing.




I'd get you one and send it, but with postage to me and then to you, it'd be big coin. Hopefully someone that lives near a GS or GW will chime in.

Those are two really different shafts. That 8X will be extremely heavy in that head. The Creation in the FT-i is a good combo, but it's not for everyone. It gets my vote.

R35

OK so a draw version obviouly has internal weighting to make it like that then. Due to my own stupidity I thought I purchased a neutral version but when it arrived it was a draw. Dammit! So maybe some lead tape on the toe would be better for this than the adapter?

So no go on the acetone, I'll just water and wire brush it then. Thankyou.

If I use lead tape I believe I can pick up a regular adapter here in aus for around $6 or so plus postage so may be easier that way. IF lead tape is the way to go.

And I think you may be right with the Creation. I hit it well in my Burner TP so why go against it?

As usual rock, a gentleman and a scholar. Thankyou for your advice.