Bore thru reshaft?

[BigJim13]

How difficult is it to reshaft a bore thru clubhead? Does anybody know a link where I can see it done or have instructions on it?

For instance, looking at a 905R and thinking about pulling the shaft. I know there is a bore plug, do those get destroyed when heating and pulling?

I think I also saw that the tip needs to be cut on an angle? Is that correct and what kind of angle?

I would assume that for most shafts I should leave them untipped, is that correct as well?


Thanks guys!

 

[BStone]

Bore through shafts are a little more of a pain than standard bore shafts, I usually drill out the bore plug and then heat the drill bit with a torch and put it in the bottom of the shaft while using a heat gun on the hosel, using a shaft puller, the head usually comes off in about twenty seconds or so.

Don't tip trim the new shaft, as it will only be the length of the raw shaft when installed. You want to install the shaft so that the bottom protrudes enough that the bottom of the shaft is level with the lowest part of the sole of the club. Golfworks sells plastic pins that you can use to plug the bottom of the shaft, I will put a bit of epoxy on one of those and then insert it into the tip of the shaft, hitting it with a hammer so that it is in as far as possible. I will then let the epoxy dry and use a buffing wheel to file down the shaft to match the sole of the club.

 

[Rockford35]

Good post, Bstone.

Jim, a bore thru is an easy install. You just need some patience and know-how.

One tip that I was told was to put a couple layers of tape on the sole of the club to "seal" the hole. You'll still get a bit of epoxy build up, but it's easy to remove with a little buffing and some acetone.

Also, you can use the original pulled shaft to obtain the angle of the tip on the new shaft. You can softly grind it on a wheel and match it against the original before installing. This will lessen your sole buffing and grinding considerably.

I've done quite a few of these in my day. The last was a bore through Cally hybrid last fall. It was a snap.

R35

 

[Augster]

No tipping is correct.

Rock's tip of taking the same angle as the pulled shaft works great. I just cut on that angle. Or if you just got a bore-through head without a shaft, put the club in to the bottom and draw a line with a pencil along where it protrudes.

I don't use a bore plug. Black epoxy works great. Epoxy in the shaft, then take some epoxy and dab it on the bottom where the hole is. Then put some masking tape over the entire bottom bore.

When it dries, you can take the tape off easily and it leaves a nice smooth finish. If the epoxy has rounded out too much, you can take it down to flush quickly with some acetone.

 

[manaka]

:diespam: :biglol:

 

[BigJim13]

Bore through shafts are a little more of a pain than standard bore shafts, I usually drill out the bore plug and then heat the drill bit with a torch and put it in the bottom of the shaft while using a heat gun on the hosel, using a shaft puller, the head usually comes off in about twenty seconds or so.

Don't tip trim the new shaft, as it will only be the length of the raw shaft when installed. You want to install the shaft so that the bottom protrudes enough that the bottom of the shaft is level with the lowest part of the sole of the club. Golfworks sells plastic pins that you can use to plug the bottom of the shaft, I will put a bit of epoxy on one of those and then insert it into the tip of the shaft, hitting it with a hammer so that it is in as far as possible. I will then let the epoxy dry and use a buffing wheel to file down the shaft to match the sole of the club.

Do I need to drill out the bore plug or can I just pull the shaft by heating the hosel? Do I need to heat the face at all? Does the epoxy go all the way into the head?

 

[Tennessee]

Jim: What BStone said is pretty on, but you do not have to do the heated drill trick if you don't want to. Heating the hosel until the epoxy fails is enough. You will have to clean out the hole with proper drill sizes, not enlarging it in any way. I always cut the shafts at an angle until I got the proper grinding and buffing wheels to clean off the bottom. If you don't have the buffing wheels, use the tape trick others posted. Some of the epoxy will go up the shaft, and some will try to push out the bottom.

 

[Rockford35]

It's not 2010 any more, you know...

R35

 

[BigJim13]

It's not 2010 any more, you know...

R35

I wasn't going to say anything!

 

[TrickyPutt]

It's not 2010 any more, you know...

R35

How about big bold dates for obviously obvious obviousness?

 

[eclark53520]

It's not 2010 any more, you know...

R35

2010 is 5 years closer to today than the last thread he brought back from the dead.