after shaft pull

[SCGolfer]

What is the best method to be sure the hosel and stuff is clean after a shaft pull?? I am gonna pull the shafts in the TA2's I picked up and just take my club guy the heads, shafts and grips so he just has to assemble them. I just want to go ahead and clean out the hosels and have everything ready to go.

Also I really deloft the club at impact so my ballflight is generally a bit lower than recommended.....with that in mind would you go with the normal FST shafts or the PRO?? If anyone has any experience.

thanks,
Jason

 

[rolltherock]

In my humble opinion I would ask myself one question before doing something as drastic as changing your ball flight with an equipment change in shafts. Does what you have now help you score or is it a liability.

Since you don't know me from Adam take it for what it's worth. I am a 3.1 index and have 3 67's to my name over the years so I do know a bit about the golf swing. With that said I by no means have the 'picture perfect' swing and any pro would make changes I'm sure. However, there is something to be said for having a knack to play shots and get the ball where you want it. We don't paint pictures on the score card

The only reason I bring this up is b/c I see so many people at my club chasing the picture pecfect swing, but forget to play golf shots. If you think low trajectory is holding you back then yea, it might be a good thing to go with. If you are sticking the ball where you want it I would caution you on changing shafts just to satisfy a 'lower than recommended' ball flight.

Make sense? Enjoy the game!

 

[Rockford35]

If you're changing shafts, the FST non-pro version are higher launch that the Pro versions. However, delofting the club at impact will negate alot of what the shaft is meant to do. Meaning, your swing dictates more than what the equipment does.

Have you considered a swing change to accomplish your goals instead? Try more of a sweep or bring the ball forward one ball width and give that a go.

For the record, I love my FST's. :thumbs up:

As for cleaning, I use a Dremel with a cool barrel style bit that cleans the hosel out in no time flat. I then use a little acetone inside the head to clean up any dry bits. Then it's just epoxy and drying.

R35

 

[SCGolfer]

I don't want to change it....I just don't want to make it worse. I sold my last set of clubs and picked up the clevelands on the cheap as a project for next spring. They have stiff DG's in them which the stiff shafts don't suite me anyway.....but some shafts that promote a lower ballflight make it worse and cost me distance. On a launch monitor my launch angle is between 3*-4* below "optimal" so generally a "normal" regular shaft keeps me within a range I am comfortable but a shaft that gives a lower ballflight makes it worse. Thus I tend to stay away from "pro" shafts or rifle's. I actually was hurt worse by the flighted rifles in my lower irons then in the long irons which was kinda weird but just the way it worked. Anyway as a change for these clubs I kinda settled on the FST offerings and likely I suppose will go with the normal shaft and not the PRO.


Jason

 

[SCGolfer]

In a nutshell....
my swing is pretty short and compact rarely get the club to parallel....maybe a bit closer later in a round
I bring the club down steep at impact and create a lot of backspin....low ballflight.
I hit 5i 165 yards.....standard lie, loft and length
Stiff shafts take away a bit of a fade I hit but also make the ballflight even lower.....regular shafts that promote a low ballflight also tend to hurt yardage say a half club or so.


Jason

 

[indacup]

Before I ad my responses to your questions, I thought I would also chime in on some concerns the others have mentioned.

First off, who told you that delofting at impact is a major issue?

I have a customer who was raised in Texas and developed a deloft style to hit low balls in the windy conditions...he is a 2 hdcp and hits TM RACs with D300 shafts.

The guy throws darts...is deadly accurate.

Before he came to us he went to an HOTSTIXX location and after being "Analyzed" was told that his flight was too low and the "computer recommended" him going up to a SENIOR flex shaft in order to get the ball up in the air.

It was pointed out to the guy operating the monitor that this customer had the ball even with his rear foot and ball speed was tremendously fast and accurate.

But the HOTSTIXX guy said: "I don't care...the machine doesn't lie".

Suffice it to say, it was a disaster.

Now if you are struggling to score well, and feel the delofting is contributory to it, then consult a pro first.

That would be a lot cheaper and faster than reshafting the clubs.

With that being said, lets look at your questions....

What is the best method to be sure the hosel and stuff is clean after a shaft pull??

Let the Pro do it...even if you did it yourself, a competent fitter would do it again, regardless.

I am gonna pull the shafts in the TA2's I picked up and just take my club guy the heads, shafts and grips so he just has to assemble them.

I hope he just doesn't "assemble" them...and actually does a proper fitting....dynamic testing, frequency/weight sorting, adjust lie/lofts, spine/Flo...etc.

Also I really deloft the club at impact so my ballflight is generally a bit lower than recommended.....with that in mind would you go with the normal FST shafts or the PRO?? If anyone has any experience.

The pros are stiffer tipped and will produce a much lower flight path.

 

[SilverUberXeno]

Go with the regular over the pros; the pros will hit the ball lower relative to the regular; not sure how either one will compare to the DGS300. I would assume that the regular FSTs would produce a higher flight. But again, your swing can overcome any compensation you make with your equipment.

There must be a few people in the world who can still slice the FT-iQ...

Anyway- try the regular FSTs, if you're comfortable swinging the way you do. It's a reasonable adjustment to make, and isn't too expensive with the FST brand shafts.

I use the pro 115's, and I like them quite a lot.

 

[SCGolfer]

I don't have any issues with my current ballflight or my swing. Just a side note to the story...my swing was "built" by a pro when I was a teenager....when I hit the ball bad I brush up on his techniques....get back to short and compact. I really hit the ball pretty well...when I don't I just generally get long at the top and hit the ball left.

I don't have the numbers right in front of me. I have numbers off of two different monitors that are very similar. I don't know how the "optimal" numbers came to be...but basically i was giving what was called an "optimal" launch angle based on swingspeed and maybe ballspeed I don't remember. I don't remember the exact numbers but say the 5i was something around 20 I was launching a 5i at 17 and that was/is pretty typical throughout the bag. My Nak driver measured out at 10.9* (stamped 10.5) with the SK Fiber regular shaft my launch angle on two monitors was between 10* and 11*. I believe the good number for a driver is 14*??

Basically I bought these irons as a little project with intention of using them next year....what I don't want to do in shaft selection is install a low launching shaft that only makes my ballflight even lower.

Thanks for the advice Indacup....I was fit by this guy before so we are gonna start at that point and adjust from there with this install.

Jason

 

[Rockford35]

If it helps in your decision making, the TA2's are .355 taper, and FST only makes .370 parallels....unless you drill the heads, you're hooped.

Just an FYI.

R35

 

[SCGolfer]

yeah rock.....I have seen conflicting stuff on that......golfworks replacement chart says they are .370 parallel......but I have seen other places that say .355 taper.....guess I won't know for sure until they are pulled.


jason

 

[packwood]

If you drill the hosel to fit the 370, swing weight is off

If you drill out the hosel you will lower the swing weight by the amount of material removed from the hosel. If you are considering a different shaft, then shaft up one or two clubs and keep your old shafts in case you want to go back.

I clean hosels with a fine emery paper around a dowel stick. I use a drill bit by hand first to get the coarse stuff out first/ Don't use a power drill.

 

[SCGolfer]

So it appears that cleveland made the ta2's in both .355 taper and .370.....If I pull a grip with the shaft information tell me what it is?? I want to purchase everything myself and have them reshafted but I don't want to have to pull a shaft to figure out what they are......sucks


Jason