And then there were 2

[ezra76]

Brought my 4 drivers to the range and 2 of them have made the cut. Each having thier distinct advantages.

• Taylormade 200Steel 9.5* - Stock TM S90 Graphite - 3g lead tape center/toe

There is one word for this driver, consistant. I have never hit a driver that I could just hit on the exact same trajectory, exact same distance, over and over again. It was so easy it was like hitting an 8iron off a tee. Hold off a little it fades a little, turn it over it draws a little. This thing is like a 265yd. 3wood. I could hit the fairway with a blindfold on if you let me adress the ball first.

And of course the one you've been waiting to hear about.

• TaylorMade R5 TP Tour Head 8.5* - Grafalloy CompNT Proto 65g Xflex- 10g heel, 6g toe

Let me start by saying I had to make some adjustments to hit this thing on center. I need to add some swingweight to it. I started out hitting it off the inside as I do with every light shafted driver. Made the adjustment, adressed it more off the toe and got a few straight ones that tailed a bit right. Wasn't too impressed by the distance, about the same as the 200 but not as tight.

Then I smoothed out my take-away, stayed smooth until I dropped into the slot and turned it on. It was then I heard the familar pop I remembered from my original R7Quad. Two words... Holy $hit... I one hopped it off the 275 marker with an insanely boring trajectory. Hit another one just left of the 275 marker, carrying almost all the way there. Then, feeling confident, I stepped it up and put something into it. The range will need to purchase a bush hog to find those balls. Dead straight, mid trajectory, carrying 275-280, landing with a head full of steam. This thing is the real deal. Bar none the most powerful drives I have ever seen.

I will need to practice and make some adjustments to be able to take advantage of it on the course. I was fairly inconsistant with it. I would say only 25-30% of the drives were the bombs I was talking about. Another 50-60% were acceptable misses but I could have done better with the 200Steel and avoided the drama. The other 10-15% would result in hitting my second shot with my pants around my ankles if I were playing from the blues. Skyballs to the ladies tee.

 

[IrishGolfer]

Let me start by saying I had to make some adjustments to hit this thing on center. I need to add some swingweight to it. I started out hitting it off the inside as I do with every light shafted driver.

Hey E (or anyone else)
That's interesting. I have hit a lot of shots out of the heel with the TEE. It is undoubtedly lighter than the 983K. Think the weight has a lot to do with it?

Hmm, interesting.

 

[ezra76]

Definitely. Get some impact tape or (as I do) just use a marker on the range balls, see exactly where you are hitting it. 2-4grams should help a lot. The best part is if you have trouble with the left side, stick it more towards the toe and it will help prevent overturning the head through impact. Do the opposite to give some help for right side issues. It definitely works. I put 3grams on the 200Steel and went from a slight draw to a slight fade in 30seconds. All it's doing is making the club heavier on one side so it's easier or harder to close and adding a little swingweight. I'll guarantee I start hitting that R5 much better if add 4grams to it. Eventually I may swap in an 85g shaft, that is the real fix.

 

[JEFF4i]

On anything over 400CCs how can you hit it on the heel?

Great stories man, just keep working on it, those TPs are beasts when it's going well.

 

[ezra76]

Too damn big. lol. It's the weight that throws me off. I have a hard time transitioning to these big ass ultralight drivers from my other clubs. Seems like every club is the exact same swing, except the driver. That's what makes the 200Steel driver so good, I can hit it just like I do a fairway wood off the tee.

 

[JEFF4i]

Not bad at all. I always liked the 200 Steel, just never bought it...darn 320 caught my eye.

 

[sidvicious]

i'm a long hitter. can't help it. when its good, its great. when its left or right, well, you know the drill.

i'd trade my 320's for a reliable stable of 265's any day.

if i could hit a 265 yard drive in the fairway on a consistent basis, i'd make a living at this game.

 

[JEFF4i]

Then why not hit a fairway wood Sid?

 

[sidvicious]

Then why not hit a fairway wood Sid?

this is a good and valid question, and i have only one response.

i hate them. i hate a fwood.

i can nail my long irons pretty good. i even use my 2iron several times per 9. but a fwood and i have never learned to get it on. i cannot get that consistent sweeping swing that the things seem to demand. sometimes i can, sometimes i can't.

but i can always nail a 3iron, or a 2.

i hit my 3iron as far as most of our guys hit their 3w.

i do, however, recognize the value of hitting the fwoods. i just can't do it.

alot of my guys hit a 5w and 7w often. i'm always picking out an iron on those shots. i just prefer irons because in my style of play the swing is more consistant from club to club.

 

[JEFF4i]

I see, then what about the thought of a 1 iron?

 

[sidvicious]

I see, then what about the thought of a 1 iron?

hmmmm, and hit a club that god can't hit!!!

you know, i think i'd like a 1 iron on a 2 iron length of shaft.

shit, now you've got me thinking......

NO! i won't do it. i don't need the length.

i will say that i do see the need for a fwood when you need to carry a far away object, like far away trees. i think a pounded 7w is good for that. for example, if you need to clear some trees 150 out, and you got a safe 100 on the other side, a 7w is great for that.

provided, IF i can hit the damn thing.

 

[Sandpiper3]

Sid- maybe stiffer driver and fw wood shafts might help the dispersion abit there bud

 

[JEFF4i]

hmmmm, and hit a club that god can't hit!!!

you know, i think i'd like a 1 iron on a 2 iron length of shaft.

shit, now you've got me thinking......

NO! i won't do it. i don't need the length.

i will say that i do see the need for a fwood when you need to carry a far away object, like far away trees. i think a pounded 7w is good for that. for example, if you need to clear some trees 150 out, and you got a safe 100 on the other side, a 7w is great for that.

provided, IF i can hit the damn thing.

Demon: DO IT DO IT! HAHAHAHAHA

Angel: Do it do it! It will save your soul.

 

[ezra76]

Just dropped a 12g in the draw port and moved the 10g to replace the 6g. I'm going out to hit it now. We'll see if the overall 6g difference does the trick. Also I was reading on TM's website about the low center of gravity in this club. I'll try teeing it a bit lower.

 

[ezra76]

Well the tee it lower thing worked good. I had a nice mid trajectory, long and boring. The weight change, however, did not do too much. I am literally adressing the ball an inch in front of the toe. It actually worked out pretty good as I had an easier time setting up fade and draw from behind it.
I have come to a conclusion though. This shaft may be a bit much for me. It takes a solid 90% swing to load it and prevent it from wanting to block on me. When I got in sync and started laying into it, it was awesome. 280-290 staight, fade, and draw. Basically it's a beast that's tough to keep on a leash. I think an S flex in a 75-85 gram would be a big improvement for me. I may swap one in and save this shaft for something more forgiving.


Oh, and my right shoulder is all done. 3 days of hitting drivers plus I moved a heavy couch down 4 floors as well as moved an upright piano today.