Blades

[jhmeg2]

I let the rocket ballz in the locker yeserday, and played with my MP29s. I love the feel of them, and the workability. I can move the ball soooo much easier with the blade than the cavity. I bought the RBZ irons because I thought I would play better, a little easier. EH... I hit them farther, but the top line is thicker than on my MP29s, or Taylor Made TDs. I really don't like the 4and 5 irons on the rocketballz because you can see the muscle sole behind it at address. I really want a set of CG1 or the new 588 blades, but can;t justify spending the money. I just bought the Rocketballz when they came out for $699. And in 2000 I think I paid $900-$1000 for the Mizunos. The Taylor Made TD TP is got 1-SW for $100, then spen another $230 ish on shafts and grips. If you have a consistant swing, you can play a blade. If you miss-hit it, you know right away, and wont wanna do it again. I have been using Rifle 6.0 shafts in my irons for years, but the Rocketballz I left stock shafts in....

 

[azgreg]

I like the forgiveness of a cavity back iron, but most of them have too much offset. I believe I found a nice compromise in a "players cavity back" iron in the CG2.

 

[TrickyPutt]

I let the rocket ballz in the locker yeserday, and played with my MP29s. I love the feel of them, and the workability. I can move the ball soooo much easier with the blade than the cavity. I bought the RBZ irons because I thought I would play better, a little easier. EH... I hit them farther, but the top line is thicker than on my MP29s, or Taylor Made TDs. I really don't like the 4and 5 irons on the rocketballz because you can see the muscle sole behind it at address. I really want a set of CG1 or the new 588 blades, but can;t justify spending the money. I just bought the Rocketballz when they came out for $699. And in 2000 I think I paid $900-$1000 for the Mizunos. The Taylor Made TD TP is got 1-SW for $100, then spen another $230 ish on shafts and grips. If you have a consistant swing, you can play a blade. If you miss-hit it, you know right away, and wont wanna do it again. I have been using Rifle 6.0 shafts in my irons for years, but the Rocketballz I left stock shafts in....

I have a set of 588 blades I might be interested in selling. They came with tt dg superlite 105s in s300. I have both the 588 cb and mb 5i and the 6i in the set so you can choose . I will take some pics if you want.

 

[William Tipton]

Any forged Hogans will be carbon steel. Carbon steel is what you see in most forgings... Mizuno, Titleist, BStone, etc. Cleveland brought out some forged SST irons in the late 90's or early 00's. Not much advantage to forged stainless vs. cast stainless.

How do you care for carbon steel?
I HATE rust

 

[TrickyPutt]

How do you care for carbon steel?
I HATE rust

You can wax them like a tablesaw top. If they are rusted there are some chemicals you can buy that either remove (acid) or make rust inert (like naval jelly..a different acid).

 

[limpalong]

How do you care for carbon steel?
I HATE rust

There are a few... very few... "raw" carbon steel blades. Most are, and any Hogans you find will be, chromed. Mizuno, Titleist, Callaway, etc... their forged blades are chromed. The chroming process reduces the propensity for rust formation.

Remember, stainless steel can also rust. I've seen castings that will show minimal oxidation... minimal. Now, there are any number of raw carbon steel wedges out there. Those are left raw so the WILL rust. The manufacturers suggest the rust will give more "bite" on soft-cover balls.

Beyond that, I've owned a number of forged blades and forged putters and forged wedges. I've never had an issue with rust. I do clean my clubs after most every round. And, if I ever have anything forged in the bag, I'll give it a quick coat of either WD40 or Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil.

Of course, you could always buy a set of BeCu Pings like mine. The patina on the copper won't ever allow rust to form. I do have to still watch for oxidation, if I don't keep them dry. On the copper irons, the oxidation appears similar to the green corrosion on a battery cable... UGLY!

 

[warbirdlover]

I've never seen carbon steel forged irons that haven't been chrome plated. It would be a rust disaster. Most use 1020 steel ( 10XX series is "plain carbon" and .20% carbon) as it is easy to forge. It also is "softer" since there are no alloys which (deepen) the hardness. Alloys don't raise the hardness, only carbon can do that but alloys make the hardness "deeper". Most who use forged irons want that softer feel.

 

[TrickyPutt]

I've never seen carbon steel forged irons that haven't been chrome plated. It would be a rust disaster. Most use 1020 steel ( 10XX series is "plain carbon" and .20% carbon) as it is easy to forge. It also is "softer" since there are no alloys which (deepen) the hardness. Alloys don't raise the hardness, only carbon can do that but alloys make the hardness "deeper". Most who use forged irons want that softer feel.

I checked in on some blades. Miz I think. They were touting grain flow forging or some crap. 1025 steel. I looked it up. Turns out it is a common steel favored for stamping. They call it forging.

 

[warbirdlover]

1025 only has slightly more carbon then 1020 and both are used for forging and stamping because they are easily shaped when heated. You can forge alloy steels but it is more difficult but you can't easily stamp it. The first two digits of the steel number 10XX indicate a plain carbon low alloy steel. The last two digits XX25 indicate the amount of carbon in the steel. Steel has a carbon "saturation" point of 1.0% so common steels have .10%-.50% carbon. You rarely would buy steel with 1.00% carbon in them. Gears for instance are an (nickel chrome) steel with .25% carbon (8625). Then they are "carburized" (case hardened) by adding carbon to the surface. When quenched they have a low core hardness (allowing them to be ductile) with a hard wear surface. Sorry. You probably didn't really want to know this junk. Mizzy advertises "grain flow" forging but all forging will cause "grain flow". They don't have anything unique.

 

[TrickyPutt]

Yeah they made me suffer through material engineering in school. Im with you.

 

[TEA Time]

1025 only has slightly more carbon then 1020 and both are used for forging and stamping because they are easily shaped when heated. You can forge alloy steels but it is more difficult but you can't easily stamp it. The first two digits of the steel number 10XX indicate a plain carbon low alloy steel. The last two digits XX25 indicate the amount of carbon in the steel. Steel has a carbon "saturation" point of 1.0% so common steels have .10%-.50% carbon. You rarely would buy steel with 1.00% carbon in them. Gears for instance are an (nickel chrome) steel with .25% carbon (8625). Then they are "carburized" (case hardened) by adding carbon to the surface. When quenched they have a low core hardness (allowing them to be ductile) with a hard wear surface. Sorry. You probably didn't really want to know this junk. Mizzy advertises "grain flow" forging but all forging will cause "grain flow". They don't have anything unique.

I bored out a lot of gears in my days, and they machined like cast iron. Very easy to cut, but made an awful powdery mess. We never touched the teeth, though.

 

[warbirdlover]

Gears can be made from lot's of different materials with different heat treatments including powdered metal, stainless steels etc etc Some don't have to be heat treated if the load isn't very much. Plain carbon steels (like1020) machine kind of "gummy" with poor chipping. Alloy steels cut better. We made some gears for our transmissions that were virtually indestructible.

What did the chips look like?

 

[azgreg]

 

[nututhugame]

Lol.

 

[warbirdlover]

Ah yes. The old "potato chip" gears....