House construction/repair advice needed

[SiberianDVM]

My house is an older cottage type: built in late 1930s, it is about 1300 sq ft, built on a brick foundation, original wooden lap siding (cypress boards), oak floors, plaster walls and ceilings

I had it re-roofed about 10 years ago, along with adding central air and heat.

I'm generally pretty handy with home repairs, so I do most of the work myself.

This house was built with ZERO insulation. I added 6" fiberglas in the attic joists and put up storm windows. It has ZERO insulation in the walls and floors.

It also has a terrible problem with the paint peeling off the cypress siding. I suspect this is mostly because there is no vapor barrier between the siding and the inner walls.

I would like to get started on working on the outside of the house. For historic reasons, saving the cypress siding would be nice, but going to vinyl or other manmade material would probably be smarter. Many of the other cottages in the neighborhood have gone to vinyl or aluminum siding.

Under the cypress siding is currently just diagonal boards, then the studs and empty space.

I plan on stripping all of the siding and sheathing off, then adding roll fiberglas insulation. Paper goes to inside surface, right?

Then to replace the board sheathing with OSB? Or something else?

Then a vapor barrier, like Tyvek? Will this help the siding pain last longer?

Then salvage as much original siding as possible and replace the damaged pieces with cypress? Or go to manmade product? What is that composite material that comes in boards that is made to look like wood?

Any advice appreciated.

 

[Slingblade61]

Damn.....that's the long way around.

Get an insulation company to spray in some cellulose or something.

It's WAY easier to drill some holes in the walls and fill the stud bays that way than ripping it all off and trying to put it back together......you might as well just buy a new house if that's how you want to approach it. :laugh:

 

[Rockford35]

Damn.....that's the long way around.

Get an insulation company to spray in some cellulose or something.

It's WAY easier to drill some holes in the walls and fill the stud bays that way than ripping it all off and trying to put it back together......you might as well just buy a new house if that's how you want to approach it. :laugh:

This was going to be my recommendation too. Pound for pound, it offers way better insulation over rolls. And, it's way less time consuming and labour intensive.

A friend of ours had her attic done in about 45 minutes. Sealed, sprayed, done.

R35

 

[Bang]

What is that composite material that comes in boards that is made to look like wood?

I think you're referring to cement fiber board. We just built a new garage, and used CFB siding. Comes in several styles; we used both shakes and clapboard. Comes pre-primed and/or pre-finished. Outstanding durability, and looks great. Expensive, though. Goes through saw blades like they're nothing. If there are a lot of cuts involved, it's quite labor-intensive.

 

[Slingblade61]

I think you're referring to cement fiber board. We just built a new garage, and used CFB siding. Comes in several styles; we used both shakes and clapboard. Comes pre-primed and/or pre-finished. Outstanding durability, and looks great. Expensive, though. Goes through saw blades like they're nothing. If there are a lot of cuts involved, it's quite labor-intensive.

AKA Hardiplank

Filling the walls from the inside means a simple plaster repair and the cypress remains in tact.

 

[VtDivot]

I think he wants to fill it from the outside, since his siding is crap and he wants to replace the OSB also.

I have never seen it done this way, kinda risky especially since you'll have the interior (plaster, wiring etc) exposed to the elements.

 

[SiberianDVM]

Yes, some of the siding needs to be replaced, as some has splits and a couple of rotten areas. I was thinking OSD and roll fiberglas to help cut down on drafts, etc.

I figure as long as I do one little section at a time, there won't be too much exposure. We don't have major elements down here in Georgia.

What about the vapor barrier cutting down on paint peeling? Is that true?

 

[Slingblade61]

Doc..... I promise not to try to operate on animals if you promise to stay away from houses.

I do this for a living and what you are proposing is quite frankly,

INSANE!

Do you know what they used before the modern vapor barrier?

They used NOTHING. If you want to put a vapor barrier somewhere, cover the floor (dirt, whatever) in the crawlspace. Then use better paint, the home depot stuff isn't cutting it.

If you want to strip the siding and blow insulation from the outside, fine. It's easier to cover the holes with new siding than patching plaster but the idea of stripping away the sheathing is nuts.

Your sheathing is most likely southern yellow pine and unless it's rotted away just leave it alone. Believe me when I tell you, what you propose will turn into your worst nightmare and it will probably never end.

Get the insulation blown in. have them insulate the floor too and you'll be good to go.
​

 

[Slingblade61]

As for vapor barriers in general, I have no proof but it is my opinion that they cause more problems than they solve. We didn't have the mold issues we have today when carpenters wrapped a home in tar paper.

Moisture retention is the phrase of the day.

 

[wirehair]

Listen to Sling, but remember you aren't fighting cold, you're fighting heat and don't want it trapped in the house. Heat loss is a problem in northern climates, in Augusta it's a benefit. Make sure that your attic is well ventilated so it can escape. I like vents in the roof. Don't get too excited about insulating the floors, you'll probably get a heating benefit maybe 10 days a year, and in the summers you want the cool crawl space to help out your AC.

I'm not too sure about moisture and paint, but it seems to me that latex paint and cedar isn't going to be a real good mix, that my be your problem.

 

[SiberianDVM]

Good advice from all, and I hear you Sling.

I'd rather go play golf anyway, but the GF has her heart set on painting and repairing the outside of my house, and I wanted to do it right if I have to do it.

I don't think my house has tar paper either....should I add some?

I do have gable fans and soffit vents to cool the attic some. It does get pretty warm up there in the summer. These floors just feel cold as ice in the winter, that's why I asked about that.

Sling, I know of a Charolais bull that needs a rectal exam...do you feel up to it?

 

[Slingblade61]

Sling, I know of a Charolais bull that needs a rectal exam...do you feel up to it?

Nah, you see, I recognize my limitations. :laugh:

 

[wirehair]

Sling, I know of a Charolais bull that needs a rectal exam...do you feel up to it?

If it was a cow, Sssmokin might be interested, he seems to like stuff like that.:laugh:

 

[SCGolfer]

Doc,

Most builders in the south avoid house wrap and things because of the humidity in the house not being able to escape. Thus trapping moisture in the wall and causing mold and rot. This could be myth or reality as I haev seen homes with it that had no problems. The only requirement is for felt paper behind brick, stucco and other porous exteriors. I would not worry about installing OSB or house wrap. If it is ok to go with a vinyl or other maintenance free material, then just pull off the cedar, check your exterior planks for rot and replace as needed, then install the new exterior. Also as was stated earlier have the wall blown with cellulose, it is much better than rolled insulation and will be much easier for this application.

Jason

 

[Wi-Golfer]

Typical housewrap is made out of Tyvek which breathes 1 way. So long as the installer has the correct side facing out the tyvek is designed to allow moisture & vapors out but keeps cold & drafts from getting in.