House construction/repair advice needed

[MGP]

I think this whole project is just an excuse for Doc to wear a "Tim Taylor" Home Improvement toolbelt, wear some jeans low so his butt crack shows and Ho a bunch of power tools.

:laugh:

Seriously though it sounds like a hell of a lot of work, glad I'm not around to help.

 

[SiberianDVM]

Seriously though it sounds like a hell of a lot of work,

Which is why I haven't started yet. This thread's only purpose is to prove to the GF that I'm doing "research."

 

[Davebud]

I can't believe I am going to say this but almost everything Sling said is right.:laugh: The only thing to take into consideration further is the wiring, if you have knob and tube you might have a problem with a "wallblow" (high tech trade term for it, I have done dozens) if that is the case see if you can find lateral blocking in the wall that creates mutiple cavities sometimes as many as 3 or 4 cavities up and down between studs. If so you are golden, also try to get Rockwool or a finely shredded insulation like Insulpro3. If you do have knob and tube its likely that most of the wiring is in the attic, but check. I know there are houses that have had it for a 85 years blah blah blah, but if you do and you are going to go through the work of pulling siding, get a new panel box and some Romax, then get the R-15 UNFACED and stuff the cavities, compression is not your friend, don't roll the bottom or push it in over the wires or pipes, but rather cut it to fit. You will like the R-15 for another reason that will make itself eveident as soon as its in, your house will be much quieter inside.

Sling is right though, Wallblow is the fastest easiest and cheapest way to go. (You can do it yourself if you're feeling up to the task, but don't tell Sling I said that.)

 

[DouginGA]

Doc,

Most builders in the south avoid house wrap and things because of the humidity in the house not being able to escape.
Jason

Might be wrong here Jason but house wrap is required by code now? I know the local here in Athens GA not only requires it but has rules for how it is taped at the windows, doors etc.

 

[warbirdlover]

Blowing in the insulation is the way to go. The house I just bought had that done. It might settle after a bazillion years but then just pull the plugs and blow more in. One house I had built up here had the blanket insulation and then outside of that aluminum foil covered foam and then the pressed (solid) siding with aluminum foil on the inside of that. That was megga insulated!! sssmokin's house (the house my mom and dad used to own and we grew up in) had insulation blown in many years ago (probably asbestos!!!) and still going strong.

 

[Clugnut]

I'm late to this party, but I thought that maybe I could add something. I also am a contractor that does a large amount of remodel work.

I really think that blowing cellulose is the way to go here, as many have said. I have not read anything Sling said that I do not agree with. Use a hole saw at the top and bottom of the walls at each cavity. The hole at the bottom is to ensure the fill. The R value you get from this is far better than from batts. I believe in the area of an R-15 to R-19 in a 2x4 wall, compared to R-13 for fiberglass.

Tyvek is a good idea if you do re-side, but its not worth ripping off the old just to do. Housewrap is very neccesary with vinyl siding, where water routinely runs down the inside of the siding at the windows, and wind blows through the laps . Wood siding is a lot tighter than vinyl, therefore the advice on skipping the vapor barriors is OK, even adviseable, IMO. You can get a house "too tight" so that it can't breathe, so avoid plastics behind drywall and such.

If you do replace the siding, the cement fiber siding mentioned is excellent. It has come a long way in the last ten years, and you can even get it painted from the factory with a 25-30 year warranty. It really gives a nice distinct look, but if you do it, I suggest using a composite material around the windows. Many think that coil stock looks weird with the fiber siding, and I tend to agree. This is an expensive option, doing it all in composite, but it looks sharp.

 

[Slingblade61]

have not read anything Sling said that I do not agree with

And if you ever do, you keep it to yourself......ok? :laugh:

 

[spankdoggie]

I am also a licensed GC here in San Francisco, and Sling is right.

Let them blow the insulation in. I am, however, not familiar with all that vapor barrier crap you guys talk about, but I am guessing it has something to do with snow or cold? I'll google it...

And post some pictures of the outside of your house, jackass. :hunter:

I am curious.

spank

P.S. Anybody else here a fan of "Holmes on Homes?"

 

[SiberianDVM]

I can do pictures, but I thought my verbal description was more than adequate for anyone other than the reading and comprehension impaired, you jenny.

 

[spankdoggie]

I can do pictures, but I thought my verbal description was more than adequate for anyone other than the reading and comprehension impaired, you jenny.

Yeah, but I don't trust your verbal description at all. You might get some good advice just by posting a photograph of the outside wall.

 

[mont86]

Doc just buy a different house, preferably one on a GC.

 

[SCGolfer]

Might be wrong here Jason but house wrap is required by code now? I know the local here in Athens GA not only requires it but has rules for how it is taped at the windows, doors etc.

Doug,

at this point we are only required to use a barrier if the house is brick, stucco or something other than vinyl. we still use tar paper rather than any wraps. it is interesting that all the readings on house wrap recommends it for vinyl houses do to water getting in, yet code here doesn't require it unless you are using a permeable exterior such as brick. we do however have a "green" community that requires house wrap. they do have plenty of rules for its use, taping it and how to finish around the windows. house wrap is like many other things in the industry that got a poor reputation but really isn't a terrible thing to use. as was stated earlier though you still have to be careful with that you don't create a situation that "traps" moisture in the wall.


Jason