I hit some clubs today. Now I would like some advice...

[joe111]

Last week I started looking for some new clubs to get and got a few opinions and today I went to a couple golf stores and talked to the salesmen and hit some clubs. I tried different types (from regular cavity backs to some that were more of a hybrid design), both graphite and steel, and he even let me hit a couple of womens clubs to see the different in shaft length since I am short, but the standard length felt fine.

Anyways, I hit 6 and 7 irons of different brands including Taylor Made Draw, Cleveland Launcher, Adams A3OS, Adams Tech OS, and a couple from a package set. Of course they all felt good when I hit the ball dead on, but I really liked the deep backs of both Adams sets because even when I didn't hit under the ball, it still got up in the air. The ones they had there were graphite, and to be honest I didn't really notice if I liked graphite better or not. I just noticed they were lighter. Are there any disadvantages to graphite shafts? The guy told me that you just dont notice feedback from them but is that something I need to worry about?

So I liked both Adams, but the OS3 is out of my price range and $600. The Tech OS were on sale at that shop for $500, but that still is a little more than I would like to spend. I am wondering if the A2 would be comparable (which they did not have) but have seen it online for around $269 and also an ad at a local store for $299 graphite shafts (if they have any left). I notice on those its says the 5-7 are hollow back as opposed to cavity back. What is the difference? The ones in the Tech OS I was hitting seemed more like a hybrid and I could hit it well, but is that big of a difference?

 

[SilverUberXeno]

The "hollow back" design is just between a hybrid club and a CB iron. That set at that price would probably be fine for you.

Graphite shafts GENERALLY give you more distance due to increased swing speed, but slightly less accuracy. This is debateable; and as technology improves there is less and less reason to NOT use graphite for anything beyond a "Feel" decision. For example, I like a heavier shaft, so I use steel.

Go with what you hit the best, honestly. That's the game.

 

[footballking732]

Graphite shafts are lighter, thus being easier for senior citizens or anobody who feels that they like the feel of a lighter shaft. Generally graphite shafts are less acurate, but they will add distance. Feedback is also less noticeable, one might say less harsh.

I have no idea on the difference between hollow back and cavity back though.

And the A2 set is a great starter set. If you were a fan of the A3OS than i cant imagine that Adams has made all too many improvements that would warrant $400 extra.

 

[rubber314chicken]

I would go with steel, because I'm sure that you can hit the ball far enough that you will not need the crutch of graphite (it might take some practice, I don't know) and the steel shafts are very accurate.

 

[limpalong]

A couple of things to keep in mind. First the shaft material question.

Graphite used to have significantly more torque than steel. Hence, the torque (twisting) during the dyanmics of the swing resulted in the reputation for being less accurate. Today's modern graphite shafts are quite stable.

But, why would one consider graphite over steel? As some have mentioned, the graphite absorbs more of the negative vibrations and transmits less shock than steel. We find quite a few of us old codgers who look to graphite to keep from jarring our old, fragile joints. If you don't suffer from chronic wrist or elbow pain, you probably don't need the shock absorbtion. You see very few graphite shafts on tour. These ladies and gentlemen are hitting hundreds of balls/day. If there was that much shock transmitted through steel shafts, wouldn't those who pound balls from dawn to dusk flock to the composite shafts?

Graphite is also lighter. I think one poster mentioned you may be able to see a little more distance from graphite. We use graphite in our drivers to reduce weight and increase clubhead speed. With our irons, it's not about distance but about consistency. The lighter shaft weight can be a little more difficult to develop the consistency you need to hone your irons distances.

Graphite shafted iron sets can be more expensive than steel shafted sets. The difference in dollars, in my opinion, can be much better spent elsewhere.

I do worry about one comment. You mentioned you tried shorter shafted ladies clubs because you are "vertically challenged". I wouldn't worry so much about shaft length as I would about lie angle. I think, if you are a tad bit shorter than the average player, it is extremely important to get fitted for your next set of irons. Many top notch retailers will fit the OTR (off the rack) clubs and bend them to fit your dynamic swing. And... I must toss in... Ping has the most exhaustive history of fitting the club to the player in the industry. Go on Ping's website and find the authorized Ping fitter in your area. Go to him/her and ask their advice. Go through a dynamic fitting where you will hit clubs to find the correct lie angle. I think you will be amazed at how much difference correct lie angles on your irons will improve your game, tee to green!!!

 

[joe111]

Well, the reason I tried them is because I asked the guy about shaft length and he watched me hold the club and my swing and thought the standard length was fine. He just told me to hit the laides so I could see the difference, and I noticed I was holding those at the very end of the shaft and I didn't like it because it felt like it was going to come out of my hands. Are you saying I'd have to get Pings in order to get fitted clubs?

 

[eclark53520]

You can get any clubs fitted, not just pings

 

[joe111]

Thanks for the help. So I kept doing some research and the best price I found for the steel shafts will be about $260 total with shipping online, and the graphite shafts in a local store will be $325 after tax. So its probably best to spend that extra $65 on another club or two, right?

 

[rubber314chicken]

I'd get the steel, and spend the extra $60 on some cleveland 588 wedges.

 

[footballking732]

I'd get the steel, and spend the extra $60 on some cleveland 588 wedges.

+1

Get the steel shafts, and then go buy some other clubs to fill the bag

 

[ezra76]

I'd say get the steel and spend the $60 on getting them fitted. Sounds to me like the sales guy was trying to tell you that you need a shorter shaft. That would more than likely also mean a flatter lie angle as well. There is no sense trying to hit standard clubs if you need something like 2-3* flat. This may or may not be the case but it's worth finding out for sure rather than struggling to hit clubs that don't fit you at all.

 

[joe111]

Actually he was telling me I don't need a shorter shaft. I thought I might need one because I am short, and he just told me to swing the short one to show me that I don't need a short shaft. But thats an idea. I think I will just try them as is for awhile, and I will be taking some lessons within the next month or so anyways so I would imagine the instructor could help with that.

Since I'm probably going to get the steel shafts from Rockbottomgolf.com because that is the cheapest I found them by far, is there anything from that site you would recommend for around $70 or so? I noticed a three wedge Tom Watson set there. Are those any good? I have never had or used wedges but I never know what to do from around 20-50 yards or so, so are wedges good for that? I would normally barely swing my pitching wedge but it usually goes too far. The other thing I could use is a bag, so if there is one on the site worth while that might be something I could get. Thanks again for all your help, I am getting excited to get clubs now!