Need some help with shaffs

[Roy]

Okay, This will prolly be a stupid question but I'am good at it so here goes.
My driver r5 Draw driver has a mid flex with a .350 tip, I dont know what this means in the terms of swing speed. I love this driver and hit it a ton with a slight draw.

Now here is the question, I just bought some Nike Foraged Tour Irons "blades" With STIFF flex I can really tell they are stiff flex and if i dont swing hard it will Fade or even Slice. Is there anyway You guys can tell what flex I need by knowing what i hit with my driver? And can anyone give me a idea on cost? Thanks.

My Drive's are about 220-250.

 

[Roy]

Also , Dose anyone know a store or company i can send my clubs to get reshafted ? Thanks.

 

[David B]

Well, normally you'll use a faster swing with your driver than you do with your irons, but not everybody is this way.

The easiest way to determine your swingspeed with your irons is to determine what iron it takes you to carry (i.e. no roll) the ball 150 yards.

For example, I use a 6-iron to carry 150, which pretty much equates to between 75-85mph, however, I've had my driver swing speed estimated at 95 to 105. I play regular flex on my irons, and stiff on my driver, and so far it's been working out great. I had located a chart somewhere that gives a breakdown with iron carry at 150 to swingspeed, but I can't find it at the moment. Basically (if I remember correctly), a 5 or 6-iron equates to 75 to 85, a 7 or 8 iron at 85-95, and a 9 iron at 95mph+. It also drops in a linear fashion as it does with the rise in swingspeed.

As far as reshafting goes, your best bet is to contact one of your local golf course's pro shops and see if they do reshaft jobs, or if they send out clubs for reshafting, and if they send them out, get the name of who they use (probably somebody local). I'm having some irons reshafted this next weekend for $50 labor for a 3-PW set, since I'm providing everything else (shafts, grips). It's a much better deal to have it done locally than it is to send them out and have to pay for shipping/insurance both ways, plus the reshaft job could be pretty expensive too. The cheapest I found online was from a guy that charged $17/club which included shaft and grip, but after I e-mailed him I never heard anything back.

Also, if you ever have any problems with the reshaft job, you'll have to send the club back in to have it repaired, rather than just being able to take it across town.

Good luck.

 

[Eracer]

One manufacturer's stiff flex is another's firm flex is another's regular flex. There is a standard for measuring shaft flex. It measures the frequency of the shaft (how fast it vibrates when "twanged" in a special vise.) Unfortunately, none of the manufacturers seem interested in publishing frequency specs, partly because the frequency changes with the swingweight of the club. Confused? You should be.

I've hit Dynamic Gold stiff shafts nice and straight, but about 10-15 yards short of my "desired" distance (150 yard 8-iron). Changing to Dynamic Gold regular shafts got me my distance back, but I lost some accuracy. My current shafts, Nippon NS Pro 950, are rated stiff, but play more like a regular. Go figure.

What I did was reshaft my six-iron a few times, playing three or four weeks with each new shaft. That was a pretty good way to pick my iron shafts.

 

[dave.]

You need whatever shaft you can hit straight,so don't get wrapped up in specs and techo babble.It sounds like regular flew irons will be perfect for you

 

[ezra76]

One manufacturer's stiff flex is another's firm flex is another's regular flex. There is a standard for measuring shaft flex. It measures the frequency of the shaft (how fast it vibrates when "twanged" in a special vise.) Unfortunately, none of the manufacturers seem interested in publishing frequency specs, partly because the frequency changes with the swingweight of the club. Confused? You should be.

I've hit Dynamic Gold stiff shafts nice and straight, but about 10-15 yards short of my "desired" distance (150 yard 8-iron). Changing to Dynamic Gold regular shafts got me my distance back, but I lost some accuracy. My current shafts, Nippon NS Pro 950, are rated stiff, but play more like a regular. Go figure.

What I did was reshaft my six-iron a few times, playing three or four weeks with each new shaft. That was a pretty good way to pick my iron shafts.

I have NS1050's, wanna trade.

 

[Roy]

Has anyone heard of TT/TX-90 ? I did a test online for my yards with a 5 iron which is around 160 give or take, And thats the shaft it said was best for me..

 

[David B]

I also tried Truetemper's "Shaft Fit" program, and it recommended the True Temper Dynamic Gold Lite's for me, and if I wanted more of a 'mid' flight pattern, it also recommended the TX-90's...

From what I hear, the TX-90's really aren't a bad shaft. If you want more of a cross-section opinion from club builders, do a search on the TX-90 at GolfSmith's Club Builder's Forum (click 'Clubmaking' at the top of the main page, then click the Forum box at the bottom of the next page). You'll have to click into a specific forum before it'll let you search, so in this case you'd want to select the shafts forum, then click the 'search' link at the top of the forum page.

I just went through the same situation, and I ended up settling on Nippon NS Pro 990GH Uniflex's (Callaway OEM on the Big Bertha Fusions), simply because it combined the best qualities of the Precison Rifle shafts, with the best from True Temper (kind of like a 'hybrid' shaft). I haven't received or tried them yet, but from what I've heard, they're the bees knees. I have Rifle's in my current irons, and I like the feel, but want a bit more flex.

 

[Roy]

How can i tell if my shafts are taper tip or 370 parallel bores. So like if i bought some tx-90 TT shafts , The shafts that are precutt for my height that iam looking at are taper tipped .

These clubs are Nike Foraged Blades.

 

[Roy]

Well i just did a search over at golfsmith clubmaking forum. And its a 355 taper tip. Perfect .

 

[Eracer]

I have NS1050's, wanna trade.

You don't like them?

 

[Lloyd Hackman]

Roy

Check out www.fitchip.com they can fit you to the shafts that you need and reshaft the Irons. They have been very successfull at using swing timing for fitting shafts rather then club head speed.

 

[ezra76]

You don't like them?

They are very heavy feeling to me. I am breaking out the grinding wheel soon though I think. They are a 1/2" long and I want to take 3/4" off them. I don't like the grips anyway. It would be more work than it's worth to swap shafts anyway, plus I only have 5-PW. If I ruin them I only need 6 replacements though.

 

[obagain]

We could reshaft them but the cost of reshafting is usually not worth it.
$25 per club dependng on the shaft you want, whch puts you $200 upside down on the set. You could sell those and buy another set wth the shafts you want and come out better.

 

[Roy]

So its 25 per club even though i send the shafts and grips with the iron set?