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Non-Closed drivers

ezra76

Well-Known Member
Feb 5, 2006
12,412
16
Where? that'd be the best possible thing for me.

had a lesson today to make sure....and the pro said something less closed would help for sure, he didn't make me change anything either which means i'm doin something right for a change!

PM me and I'll send you to it.
 
OP
Youngun5

Youngun5

Beware of the Phog!
Aug 26, 2004
2,734
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i've been researching Tour Issue HiBore's a bit. one question.

what do the different serial number's and letter stampings mean?? i've run into both an "A" and a "B" stamped heads. whats the deal?

thanks.
 

LyleG

gear head
Aug 10, 2006
6,388
28
Country
Canada Canada
Hi-bore Xl's are Square face angle, tour XL is 3* open, regardless of shaft.
 

ezra76

Well-Known Member
Feb 5, 2006
12,412
16
Hi-bore Xl's are Square face angle, tour XL is 3* open, regardless of shaft.


If that's square I'd hate to see shut.

3055d1172026389-ok-maybe-not-dscf1389.jpg
 

LyleG

gear head
Aug 10, 2006
6,388
28
Country
Canada Canada
According to Cleveland they are square +/- 1*. Gotta love OEM quality control
 

Rockford35

Shark skin shoes
Staff member
Admin
Aug 30, 2004
21,798
1,080
Canada
Country
Canada Canada
i've been researching Tour Issue HiBore's a bit. one question.

what do the different serial number's and letter stampings mean?? i've run into both an "A" and a "B" stamped heads. whats the deal?

thanks.


Retail head - mid launch, mid spin to loft, very high loft on the face. About 4-5 degrees more than stamped on the sole. Heel biased.

T Serial head (has no letter on the hosel) - half as heel biased as the retail head. CG is a little bit more back and low. Faces tend to be square on these heads to very slightly open (~1.5*).

T Serial A head - neutral CG location, lower and deeper CG location for higher launch and lower spin. Basically the best for better players out there. Open more than that of the T Serial heads, around 2-3*. (This is what I have, Gun).

T Serial head, B STAMPED on hosel - lowest, deepest CG location. This head will spin the least of all of them. Designed for those that need a dramatic spin reduction.

T Serial head, C STAMPED on hosel - the Vijay Singh head. Full scoring lines on the face, cast at 7 degrees open. You won't find any of these.


Hope this helps, Gun.


R35
 
OP
Youngun5

Youngun5

Beware of the Phog!
Aug 26, 2004
2,734
11
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helped immensely, rock, thanks.

sounds like i either need a reg. serial T head with no letter, or a B stamped. whats the face angle on the B if its known?
 

ualtim

Carrollton, TX
Supporting Member
Aug 20, 2005
7,779
2,331
Country
United States United States
Retail head - mid launch, mid spin to loft, very high loft on the face. About 4-5 degrees more than stamped on the sole. Heel biased.

T Serial head (has no letter on the hosel) - half as heel biased as the retail head. CG is a little bit more back and low. Faces tend to be square on these heads to very slightly open (~1.5*).

T Serial A head - neutral CG location, lower and deeper CG location for higher launch and lower spin. Basically the best for better players out there. Open more than that of the T Serial heads, around 2-3*. (This is what I have, Gun).

T Serial head, B STAMPED on hosel - lowest, deepest CG location. This head will spin the least of all of them. Designed for those that need a dramatic spin reduction.

T Serial head, C STAMPED on hosel - the Vijay Singh head. Full scoring lines on the face, cast at 7 degrees open. You won't find any of these.


Hope this helps, Gun.


R35

This is what disgusts me about OEM's. You need to have access to the "secret" code to know what you are buying. Is there any real need to stamp an incorrect loft on the sole of head on purpose? I understand there are always going to be minor manufacturing variations, but 4 to 5 degrees? Yes, a lot of people out there will hit the driver better with some more loft added, but do they really need to falsify the sole stamp to fool the general public into buying into a higher loft?
 
OP
Youngun5

Youngun5

Beware of the Phog!
Aug 26, 2004
2,734
11
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then i think i'm looking for just a Txxxx serial, no letter. i need less closed, as opposed to more open, if thats understandable. b/c a good 60% of my drives are still really good, 25% are ducking, and the other 15% are just slight misses really, or all my fault, this thing is just too easy to take left though.

this one has 4 days and 36 holes to impress the hell out of me and save its spot
 

Rockford35

Shark skin shoes
Staff member
Admin
Aug 30, 2004
21,798
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Canada
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then i think i'm looking for just a Txxxx serial, no letter. i need less closed, as opposed to more open, if thats understandable. b/c a good 60% of my drives are still really good, 25% are ducking, and the other 15% are just slight misses really, or all my fault, this thing is just too easy to take left though.

this one has 4 days and 36 holes to impress the hell out of me and save its spot

Geeze, I just happen to have one of those in my bag....:laugh:

Seriously, Gun, if my Ft-3 works out for me, I'll sell you this head for cheap. If you want the whole she-bang (shaft too), we can work something out.

Give me two weeks for a trial run. Can you wait that long?

R35
 

VtDivot

SLIGHTERED
Supporting Member
Apr 16, 2005
7,154
32
If your Hi Bore is as good as you say it is, no chance the FT-3 will knock it out of the bag. I've hit it many times, it was a nice driver, but nothing to wow over.
 

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