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One more shorten the driver shaft question

Gregor

Well-Known Member
Jul 10, 2008
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I recently ordered the TS Renegade for a great deal from Rory @ Indacup(I'm not a tournament player) and did some research and think I've got the loft and flex right. But I forgot to ask about the length. I assume it will be about 45 to 45 1/2 inches and I've convinced myself I need a shorter club. I play to about a 7 handicap but the driver has always been my nemisis. My wrist to floor is about 32.5 to 33 inches or so and my ss is only about 90 to 95 or so. My long winded question is how do I decide how much to take off and who do I trust to be able to shorten it for me and keep the swing weight and flex feeling the same as its meant to be? Thanks all.
 

Clugnut

Gimme some roombas!
Aug 13, 2006
3,423
1
My wrist to floor is similar (mine is 33.5). I'm most comfortable with a driver length in the area of 43.5-44.5. TLT says it should be 43.5, and I currently play my driver at 44.5. I will not go longer than that. If you can afford to lose 5 yards on perfect hits, drop the inch or two to make it comfortable for you.

As far as who can do it, any reputable clubmaker could shorten and re-swingweight it for you. If Rory didn't have it made yet, I'm sure he'll have it taken care of for you.
 

Wi-Golfer

Golfer on hiatus.
Supporting Member
Jul 25, 2007
8,147
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Madison, Wi
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I recently ordered the TS Renegade for a great deal from Rory @ Indacup

Wow, you actually got hold of him???? Been trying for a week with no response, even though he has logged in here several times.
 
OP
G

Gregor

Well-Known Member
Jul 10, 2008
29
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My wrist to floor is similar (mine is 33.5). I'm most comfortable with a driver length in the area of 43.5-44.5. TLT says it should be 43.5, and I currently play my driver at 44.5. I will not go longer than that. If you can afford to lose 5 yards on perfect hits, drop the inch or two to make it comfortable for you.

As far as who can do it, any reputable clubmaker could shorten and re-swingweight it for you. If Rory didn't have it made yet, I'm sure he'll have it taken care of for you.

Well, I got the club before I could reach Rory(No complaints here) and I do want to cut it down an inch and a half to two inches. So from what I've read I'll need approx. 18-24 grams of weight added to the head. Is this done with lead tape and does it matter where on the head you put the tape?
 

Eracer

No more triple bogies!!
Oct 31, 2005
12,405
8
First off, I suggest you take it out and play a couple of rounds with it at its current length. You can't get back what you cut off.

Next, if you do cut the shaft down, play a couple of rounds without weighting it. You might be surprised in how the lighter swingweight works for you.

Adding tape will change the CG of the head. Adding to the heel will promote a draw, adding to the toe will promote a fade.
 

LyleG

gear head
Aug 10, 2006
6,388
28
Country
Canada Canada
Next, if you do cut the shaft down, play a couple of rounds without weighting it. You might be surprised in how the lighter swingweight works for you.

Yes, many players would be far better off with much lighter swingweights. For example a player who likes his 38 inch 5 iron at D2 for example. In order for his driver to match from an MOI match perspective it would swingweight at around C5 and plat to 43.5 inches.

Adding tape will change the CG of the head. Adding to the heel will promote a draw, adding to the toe will promote a fade.


True, but the amount of weight you would be adding in this case wont do squat to effect anything other than weight. You need to move close to to 40g of weight before you even begin to make a difference. The added bonus of increased head weight is that fro every gram of weight you add to the head you increase its MOI by 33g/cm2.
 

Eracer

No more triple bogies!!
Oct 31, 2005
12,405
8
Yes, many players would be far better off with much lighter swingweights. For example a player who likes his 38 inch 5 iron at D2 for example. In order for his driver to match from an MOI match perspective it would swingweight at around C5 and plat to 43.5 inches.




True, but the amount of weight you would be adding in this case wont do squat to effect anything other than weight. You need to move close to to 40g of weight before you even begin to make a difference. The added bonus of increased head weight is that fro every gram of weight you add to the head you increase its MOI by 33g/cm2.
Are you saying that the moveable weight technology is useless? :laugh:
 
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Gregor

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Jul 10, 2008
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How much tape are we talking with 1 1/2" taken off? Will it look like crap? (Not that I care if I can actually start hitting a driver in the fairways) Cutting is permanent I know, but the tape is easily added or removed I assume. Oh and I will take the advice to play with it before each step. Thanks again for the replies.
 
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Gregor

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Jul 10, 2008
29
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Ok, I got it cut. It's at about 43 3/4. It started out at 44 3/4, so only an inch or so. It's at about a c8 now. I haven't added any head weight yet. I'm going to let the grip dry and then hit it. The guy that cut it will use some sort of powder and cork it. Can anyone tell me about this? Where will the weight be distributed? After I hit it, if it feels light about how much weight will I need to add to make feel about the same as it was designed to?
 

LyleG

gear head
Aug 10, 2006
6,388
28
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Canada Canada
Do not use powder and corks in graphite shafts. The inner area of the shaft is too small and you will end up with powder (usually tungsten) above the depth of the hosel. This will result in shaft breakage. Its not a matter of it, but when, and the when usually comes sooner than later. Use a tip weight, add weight internally to the head, or use lead tape with graphite shafts. Steel is a different story, but again, you should not have powder up beyond the top of the hosel.
 

RickinMA

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Feb 3, 2007
1,845
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Do not use powder and corks in graphite shafts. The inner area of the shaft is too small and you will end up with powder (usually tungsten) above the depth of the hosel. This will result in shaft breakage. Its not a matter of it, but when, and the when usually comes sooner than later. Use a tip weight, add weight internally to the head, or use lead tape with graphite shafts. Steel is a different story, but again, you should not have powder up beyond the top of the hosel.

Lyle, what you're saying makes sense to me and I'm sure I've read this before - but, I read something this morning on the wishon forum that robot testing had proven this was a myth - http://www.wishongolf.com/twforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8236

any idea where any of this old or new thinking has actually been tested?
 

LyleG

gear head
Aug 10, 2006
6,388
28
Country
Canada Canada
That guy can call it a myth all he wants. I have personally seen this happen at least a dozen times, so I would still not recommend it under any circumstance, especially with so many better options for adding weight at your disposal.
 

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