Should a beginner start with a regular or stiff flex?

[effec]

I'm gonna head out to the range this weekend to start working on my swing. I was going to pick up a 3 wood and driver this week but dont know what flex to choose.

I plan to get the TM 580XD 10.5* driver and either the TM r7 steel or TM Vsteel (following the advice of fellow forum member). Of course, If I see something cheaper, i'll probably pick that up first, but I am still confused on flex.

Its my understand that it has to do all with my swing. Something i haven't really developed yet. What flex should i pick?

Does your physical condition / height have anything to do with it?

 

[RickinMA]

it's tough to say for sure - most people would probably be better with Reg flex, but stock shafts have gotten softer over the years because people have ego problems
What club do you use to hit the ball 150 yrds?
physical conditon and athleticism might play a role but swing mechanics are probably more important
For example, If you played baseball in college and are in great shape, you can probably learn the golf swing and swing pretty fast - requiring a stiff shaft

 

[effec]

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What club do you use to hit the ball 150 yrds?

I haven't really done that yet, lol , so i couldnt say

Do you think its best that i just get a used OEM R flex and if i need a stiffer shaft, just move up later? (assuming i can get most of my money back with good used oems)

 

[eclark53520]

You mean you know know which club it is, or you havent hit the ball past 150 yards yet?

If you cant hit the ball 150 r flex is too stiff for you and A flex would be in order

 

[RickinMA]

if you're that new to it, you're probably best off waiting to buy a driver til you get your swing grooved a little bit - the driver is the hardest club in the bag to hit (lowest loft combined with longest length) - maybe pick up a 3 wood first - then get fitted for a driver in a few weeks

 

[limpalong]

(assuming i can get most of my money back with good used oems)

In today's market, could be a costly assumption! I would never purchase a club, not having any idea as to what shaft flex I would be best suited for. Where are you located? Can you not find someone with a simulator that will allow you to try various shaft flexes? What about the used market in your area? Does one of the shops with an inventory of used clubs have a range... or will they allow you to demo a club to a local range?

Before spending your hard earned money, even if it takes some $4 gasoline, find a place where you can demo some different shafts. It will pay in the long run!!!

 

[Eracer]

if you're that new to it, you're probably best off waiting to buy a driver til you get your swing grooved a little bit - the driver is the hardest club in the bag to hit (lowest loft combined with longest length) - maybe pick up a 3 wood first - then get fitted for a driver in a few weeks

I used to think that, but someone on the board mentioned that the drivers of today are so much more forgiving than the drivers of the past that new players actually benefit from carrying a modern driver. Obviously, they need to be able to hit the ball with some consistency. And they would be well-served getting fitted for a 12º driver with a trimmed shaft that is just a bit stiffer than they currently need.

This actually makes sense to me. I am more confident with my 12º Renegade than I am with my 17º 4-wood. The extra loft and MOI allows me to swing the driver with confidence. I feel I need to be much more precise with the 4-wood.

I'm not preaching gospel here - Rick, and many others know much more about this game than I do.

But if I were a new player, I would get a forgiving 12º driver with a 43" shaft that I had been fitted for.

 

[RickinMA]

I don't disagree that todays' drivers aren't that bad - but if the option is a 10.5* TM with a 45" shaft or wait, I'd wait.
couple weeks of lessons and time at the range developing a swing, followed by getting fit for a driver will result in a club that can stay in the bag for a while. "Throwing away" a few dollars for a decent used fairway wood probably won't hurt as much financially
(the trade-in value on my v-steel that I picked up used for $50 is higher than the trade-in value of my TM driver that was priced much higher originally - I look at the trade-in values only because I figure I can always use the credit for balls or gloves)
plus, a 3 wood might fit into the bag down the line

 

[Eracer]

I don't disagree that todays' drivers aren't that bad - but if the option is a 10.5* TM with a 45" shaft or wait, I'd wait.
couple weeks of lessons and time at the range developing a swing, followed by getting fit for a driver will result in a club that can stay in the bag for a while. "Throwing away" a few dollars for a decent used fairway wood probably won't hurt as much financially
(the trade-in value on my v-steel that I picked up used for $50 is higher than the trade-in value of my TM driver that was priced much higher originally - I look at the trade-in values only because I figure I can always use the credit for balls or gloves)
plus, a 3 wood might fit into the bag down the line

Lord knows I've walked down the ho path forever, always in search of the "Magic Driver." I think my point is that the old saying "new players shouldn't use drivers" is outmoded. Getting fitted is much more important than that argument.

 

[footballking732]

I used to think that, but someone on the board mentioned that the drivers of today are so much more forgiving than the drivers of the past that new players actually benefit from carrying a modern driver. Obviously, they need to be able to hit the ball with some consistency. And they would be well-served getting fitted for a 12º driver with a trimmed shaft that is just a bit stiffer than they currently need.

This actually makes sense to me. I am more confident with my 12º Renegade than I am with my 17º 4-wood. The extra loft and MOI allows me to swing the driver with confidence. I feel I need to be much more precise with the 4-wood.

I'm not preaching gospel here - Rick, and many others know much more about this game than I do.

But if I were a new player, I would get a forgiving 12º driver with a 43" shaft that I had been fitted for.

I 100% agree with that.

Ways of the past was that a 3 wood was much better for a beginner. Now it simply isnt true.

Golf magazine(or golf digest one of the 2) did an experiment and found that driver left players in much better positions than a 3 wood did off the tee.

Drivers have larger sweet spots, and higher MOI. With the much smaller face of a 3 wood, i actually missed the ball on occasion when i was a beginner. With a driver you should have no chance of missing by anywhere near that much.

 

[West Coast Duffer]

I'm gonna head out to the range this weekend to start working on my swing. I was going to pick up a 3 wood and driver this week but dont know what flex to choose.

I plan to get the TM 580XD 10.5* driver and either the TM r7 steel or TM Vsteel (following the advice of fellow forum member). Of course, If I see something cheaper, i'll probably pick that up first, but I am still confused on flex.

Its my understand that it has to do all with my swing. Something i haven't really developed yet. What flex should i pick?

Does your physical condition / height have anything to do with it?

Do you have any irons? How well do you hit those?

 

[effec]

Do you have any irons? How well do you hit those?

I haven't gotten anything yet. Im just starting out.

im anxious to get out. I cant get out until the weekend so im stuck reading golf for dummies and penicks little red book.

 

[Pa Jayhawk]

I 100% agree with that.

Ways of the past was that a 3 wood was much better for a beginner. Now it simply isnt true.

Golf magazine(or golf digest one of the 2) did an experiment and found that driver left players in much better positions than a 3 wood did off the tee.

Drivers have larger sweet spots, and higher MOI. With the much smaller face of a 3 wood, i actually missed the ball on occasion when i was a beginner. With a driver you should have no chance of missing by anywhere near that much.

Which is the main reason I pulled my 3 wood out of my bag and couldn't even hit it well off the tee and it is very costly. Then went to a 4w to assure it would never find it's way back into my bag. As far as consistency, I would likely have to drop down to a 7w or more likely my 4i/R to assure any more consistency than how I hit my driver. Starting out, everyone told me to simply use a 3w or 5w, and not a driver off the tee, as at the time I sliced my driver. After about 6 months I was able to hit a driver just fine or at least keep it in play the majority of the time, where the people that told me to stick with a 3w or 5w were still hitting such after 5 years of playing. If all you are able to rely on is a 5w off the tee, it probably isn't going to matter much after a couple years of swinging. You will still likely hit the club just as poorly as you would to start, as it has a longer shaft. So at what point do you say "O.K, I can try and hit my driver now" Problem I see with most people and the driver (myself included for several years and still now when I start to hit it poorly) is they just simply try to murder the ball.

This is not to say that there are not times where my current 4w is not better off the tee, where I play them about 50~50. Although this is more due to either distance or a more predictable flight, or course management. Where each have a predictable nature.

As far as shafts go, the other consideration is your tempo. Even if you only hit say a 5i 150 yards, this is not to say you still may not benefit from a stiff shaft if you have a fast or jerky tempo. If you have a place in your area that has a monitor or even a pro on site where you plan to purchase from, they may be able to give you a close enough determination. I am not sure I would recommend buying a first driver without having someone at least look at the distance and nature of your swing. As you may never hit the club properly and get disgusted with the club and go to the 3w mentality, when it may simply be a result of having improper equipment. I actually think next to getting guidance on your putter, getting fit for your driver and shaft would be higher on the list for me than any of the other clubs. Not to say that it is not important on others as well. Just the nature of the beast on having to weigh whether you have a poor swing or poor equipment leading to poor results. At least for me, I am usually pretty certain my swing is the cause of my bad shots. I would also say that while you may get some money back, I would likely treat golf clubs like computers, and just assume the second it leaves the store you will get nothing close to what you paid. Then whatever you do get is good.

 

[Bubble Head]

Get irons first. A nice set of used super game improvement irons. When you can hit the 4 or 5 iron on the bottom of that set 80% of the time, then worry about hybrids and drivers.

 

[West Coast Duffer]

I agree with bubble. definitely start with some GI irons and work on the higher lofted ones. everybody want to get out and bash big drives but the game is won around the greens.