Graphite shaft FTW
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What did you build today?
- Thread starter PaPaD
- Start date
- Sep 1, 2004
- 6,510
- 4,958
You got me messed up now on swing weight with Graphite. That black skull skin looks pretty sick, also looks very easy to install.
Cool cool, either would work. Post pics as you go!
OP
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #514
A couple weeks ago, I picked up a couple used Callaway drivers. One is the lightweight V-Series. Last week, pulled the shaft off one of my Callaway 5-woods and screwed it onto this V-Series driver head. The head looks gigantic on that short shaft.
Have three rounds with it so far. 1.) You cannot miss a fairway. The shorter shaft is unbelievable when it comes to dispersion. 2.) It is just as long... or longer... than I was with the lightweight Bassarra shaft that came in it. With the short shaft, I can swing right on through the ball.
Been a fun experiment. I have another Callaway driver shaft that I may cut down to split the difference between that driver length and this 5-wood length and try that.
Have three rounds with it so far. 1.) You cannot miss a fairway. The shorter shaft is unbelievable when it comes to dispersion. 2.) It is just as long... or longer... than I was with the lightweight Bassarra shaft that came in it. With the short shaft, I can swing right on through the ball.
Been a fun experiment. I have another Callaway driver shaft that I may cut down to split the difference between that driver length and this 5-wood length and try that.
- Aug 20, 2005
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United States
Usually the first thing I do when I get a driver is cut it down and add weight to the head. OEM’s started adding length to drivers when graphite shafts became popular (late 80’s / early 90’s) for swingweight purposes. Soon after, they realized adding length could increase your distance on a well struck shot, so just like vanishing loft in irons, drivers started getting longer for marketing purposes. What they do not tell you is that you hit the sweet spot less often with a longer shaft, so for most of us, that means less overall distance and control. Adding an inch to driver length only adds a few yards of distance on a well struck shot. I rather have more controllable/consistent distance on more of my drives than a few yards the 5% of the time I hit perfect.
Tiger dominated the 97 Masters with a 43.5 inch, steel shafted driver. It works for all levels.
OP
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #517
Latest escapade in PapaD's little shop of horrors. I scored a set of 2004 Callaway Big Bertha irons for cheap. Graphite shafts were beat. Ring ferrules were beat, broken or missing, heads were fine. I had some shafts, so I ordered collared ferrules, bore-through shaft pins for graphite and some grips. Goal - learn how to reshaft a bore-through iron head. I had to do some math (uh-oh) because tip trimming is different with bore-through since the shaft goes deeper into the clubhead. Turns out 1/2" less of tip trim was the answer once you learn how to measure BBGM (Bottom of Bore to Ground). Anyway, after lots of reading and asking, these turned out OK. I don't have really good finishing/polishing tools so they could have looked a little better, but I'm happy and the buddy that just bought them is happy.
Pulling old head
Reaming hosel - Callaway hosels have a taper at the end. My shafts were .370 parallel. Yes, it's easier to clamp the reamer in a vise and push/turn the head.
Everybody lines up for business!
Glued up with bore-through pins inserted. Shaft hole has to be plugged so the critters can't crawl in there and make nests.
Finished project - had to use my cutoff wheel and wire brush wheel to smooth things out. A Scotchbrite wheel is the answer - just ordered one.
Pulling old head
Reaming hosel - Callaway hosels have a taper at the end. My shafts were .370 parallel. Yes, it's easier to clamp the reamer in a vise and push/turn the head.
Everybody lines up for business!
Glued up with bore-through pins inserted. Shaft hole has to be plugged so the critters can't crawl in there and make nests.
Finished project - had to use my cutoff wheel and wire brush wheel to smooth things out. A Scotchbrite wheel is the answer - just ordered one.
Well done!!!Latest escapade in PapaD's little shop of horrors. I scored a set of 2004 Callaway Big Bertha irons for cheap. Graphite shafts were beat. Ring ferrules were beat, broken or missing, heads were fine. I had some shafts, so I ordered collared ferrules, bore-through shaft pins for graphite and some grips. Goal - learn how to reshaft a bore-through iron head. I had to do some math (uh-oh) because tip trimming is different with bore-through since the shaft goes deeper into the clubhead. Turns out 1/2" less of tip trim was the answer once you learn how to measure BBGM (Bottom of Bore to Ground). Anyway, after lots of reading and asking, these turned out OK. I don't have really good finishing/polishing tools so they could have looked a little better, but I'm happy and the buddy that just bought them is happy.
Pulling old head
Reaming hosel - Callaway hosels have a taper at the end. My shafts were .370 parallel. Yes, it's easier to clamp the reamer in a vise and push/turn the head.
Everybody lines up for business!
Glued up with bore-through pins inserted. Shaft hole has to be plugged so the critters can't crawl in there and make nests.
Finished project - had to use my cutoff wheel and wire brush wheel to smooth things out. A Scotchbrite wheel is the answer - just ordered one.
OP
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #519
I built a few of these Integra i-drive hybrid irons for one of my fellow geezer buds in my VA Thursday group and it caught on like a virus. These 5 sets are today's build, and I've already done 7 previous sets in the last month! I ran out of epoxy this morning! Got 2 ladies sets on there.
Attachments
Mad scientist!!!
OP
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #521
That I am. How the heck are ya, Nick?
I'm good brother, you?
OP
- Thread Starter
- Thread starter
- #523
Just older. Still living the dream!
Technically a nightmare is a dream.
Glad to hear it!!!
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