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What shaft

3Bogey

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Jan 20, 2006
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I am looking to replace my Rifle steel 5.5's regular flex with a graphite shaft to gain more distance. I can pick up a set of Aerotech Powercoil 65's for 10 bucks a piece but not sure about this company or that shaft. Any suggestions on a good graphite iron shaft??
 

limpalong

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Oct 18, 2006
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I am looking to replace my Rifle steel 5.5's regular flex with a graphite shaft to gain more distance. I can pick up a set of Aerotech Powercoil 65's for 10 bucks a piece but not sure about this company or that shaft. Any suggestions on a good graphite iron shaft??

1. Rifle 5.5's are not "regular" flex. An S300 Dynamic Gold flexes between the 5.5 and 6.0. Rifle 4.5 to 5.0 are closer to what one would deem "regular" flex.
2. A change to graphite from steel will reduce the swingweight of your clubs. That reduced swingweight could require a "harder" swing to generate the same forces. Yes, the lighter static weight should create a tad bit more speed. But, especially in irons, that will be minimal at best.
3. If the Aerotechs are "regular" flex you will gain distance over the stiffer flex of the 5.5 rifles.
4. You may give up accuracy with graphite over steel, depending upon your swing dynamics. Graphite has more torque (twist) through the swing than steel. Timing becomes much more important with graphite to sustain your accuracy.
5. Why do you need more distance? I play Eye 2+'s which have weaker lofts than many of the modern strong lofted irons. I'm also 60 years old. If a young, flat belly hits a 9-iron 150 yards but is 20 feet left of the pin and I hit a 7-iron the same distance but am 5 feet from the pin... I"ll take my 7-iron any day. It's not HOW... It's how MANY!!!
6. What irons do you play? Could you simply strengthen the lofts a couple of degrees and gain a little distance? That would certainly be less expensive than purchasing and installing the graphites.

Just some notes to generate thought processes. Good luck on whatever you decide to do!
 

Don

Well-Known Member
Aug 23, 2005
203
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I don't recommend any graphite shafts for your irons, unless the torque rating is under 2.5. At that torque, you'll have to spend at least $25-$30 per shaft, plus labor charges. As for gaining distance, don't count on seeing any increased distance. I hit my X-stiff steel shaft nine iron, 150 yards carry. When I tested the same clubs, with R flex graphite shafts, I hit them the same yardages. If you really want to gain some distance, try an early wrist cock, with a late release of said wrist cock. I gained 15 yards with all my irons when I started doing this. Try it, you might like it too.
 

BigJim13

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Aug 13, 2006
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Or you could try a lighter weight steel. There are some good deals on Ebay for DG Lites, they weigh around 115gr each and are about 12-15 grams less than the rifles. Just a thought...
 

MCDavis

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If you do change shafts, I might be interested in the Rifle's...pm me before you let them go.
 

warbirdlover

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2. A change to graphite from steel will reduce the swingweight of your clubs. That reduced swingweight could require a "harder" swing to generate the same forces. Yes, the lighter static weight should create a tad bit more speed. But, especially in irons, that will be minimal at best.

limpalong

The OEM's get around this by making the graphite shafts 1/2" longer to retain the swingweight.
 
OP
3Bogey

3Bogey

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Jan 20, 2006
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Sorry!!!, I meant to say my shafts were the 5.0's which technically are a little stiffer than Regular, I believe they call them R+. I use snake eyes 600xc forged, a great feeling club. Anyway I only carry my 5 iron about 150, and regardless of how accurate I am that is short!!! I need distance!!!! With a drive of only 220-230 those long par 4's in regulation just aint gonna happen!! Yes.... it's no doubt mechanics or lack there of...... but Don this short non-rotating body just can't generate enough clubhead speed even with wristcock. We're talking genetic limitations despite years of proper stretching. I've played every sport from grade school through college and I have never been able to gain flexibility. I'm just flat out inflexable!! I am only 37 and pretty strong but I have no rotation. Nothing disconnects on the backswing or follow through. Everybody part is in synch(it has no choice) which actually benefits my accuracy because it is such a simple short golfswing. I am very accurate but no length. It's hard to create any lag or disconnect with this body. And I don't care what anyone says about Drive for show and putt for dough.... distance matters. There aren't too many guys I know under a 10 handicap that carry's a 5 iron only 150 yards. So.... I'm relying on the multi-billion dollar golf industry to take me distances I have never been before. Maybe I'm asking too much..... but I thought graphite would give me at least another 10 yards. Sounds like I'm wrong!!!
 

limpalong

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Oct 18, 2006
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The OEM's get around this by making the graphite shafts 1/2" longer to retain the swingweight.
You typically find graphite shafted woods offered standard longer than steel. But, the weight differences in today's graphite (55 to 65 grams) vs. steel (over 130 grams for DG) still will see most OEM's having different weight heads. An OEM driver head designed for a steel shaft will have a different static weight than one designed for graphite.

Likewise, many of the better OEM's sort their iron heads by weight. It is nearly impossible to get Ping to change a set of irons that have left the factory with graphite over to steel. Ping sorts by weight and feels there is just too much difference in the weight of steel vs. graphite.

In irons, you can purchase "tour weight"... heavy graphite shats in the 100 to 110 gram range. The heavier weight graphite will narrown the difference between that and steel. At that point, however, the benefit remaining of graphite is mainly the cushioning effect. As my wrists and elbows begin to feel the effects of old age, I may elect to use graphite. I can retain similar weight feel by utilizing the heavier graphite shafts.

I don't like the idea of simply going to a longer shaft in irons to accomodate the graphite. If the irons are fitted to your swing... or if you have used the irons for a long time and are used to the lie angle... you may run into difficulty with the longer shafts. As the shaft lengthens, the lie becomes radically more upright. If I am fitted to my 6-iron and then add 1/2" to the length, the toe will now be sticking up in the air. Again, if I am fitted, I am fitted to lie and length. Once we add length, we then need to adjust the loft to maintain the same lie angle.

Just some additional food for thought.
 

Eracer

No more triple bogies!!
Oct 31, 2005
12,405
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If I could only generate enough clubhead speed to hit a 5-iron 150-yards, I would put senior flex, lightweight steel shafts in my irons. And if that didn't get me the distance I was looking for, I'd try women's flex. Get your distance through increased shaft flex, not decreased swingweight.
 

Pullmeister

Well-Known Member
Dec 6, 2006
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Hi, I just joined Shottalk so this is my first post. Heres my 2 cents

You may or may not notice an increase in distance by going to graphite. But you can get a reasonable swingweight with your Golfsmith heads at standard playing length. Just add a tungsten weight to the in hosel weight port.. Not sure about Powercoil shafts but UST makees a very nice 85g shaft that is quite cheap.

IMO though, if you're only hitting a 5i 150yds you should try using a softer flex than a 5.5. Try a 5 or a 4.5 in your favorite iron. and see if you get any extra yards. If that works you could save a bunch by just rotating your shafts down through the set. EG 3i shaft to 5i , 4-6i ETC
 

MCDavis

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Oct 19, 2006
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So, did you change shafts, and if so, what are you doing with the Rifle 5.0's??
 

demon

Hybrids are for girls
Oct 29, 2006
1,221
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I know I should be hitting X100's but I like the feel of S300's. Would I gain more accuracy with X100's? Driver club head speed is 115 - 117mph
 

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