Calling Warbirdlover

[DouginGA]

WBL,
excellent read there, thanks

For rust removal-

I have tried tin foil and vinegar, it works well.

Is this wise?? Reason I ask is that I had a job last week for a client that wanted a wall covered in "rusted corrugated metal" and after using an acid wash to remove the galvinization (sp?) i used a combo of vinegar, peroxide, and salt to rust the metal. the metal rusted within seconds and developed a good thick rust over night.

 

[warbirdlover]

In the mix, I don't think the vinegar would do anything to cause rust since it's acitic. Might help set up the surface for the peroxide and salt. The peroxide (oxygen) and salt (oxygen) will really go after iron or steel. After all, rust is iron oxide. Oxygen easily combines with iron since oxygen atoms are so small and can move through the "interstices" of the body centered crystalline structure. (Customer actually "wanted" a wall covered in "rusted corrugated metal"? Strange).

Search "rust removers" and you'll get lot's of good choices to take it off.

 

[Glenn70]

Chromium in stainless still is very "abrasive" to cutting tools such as drills. You have to get the heat out ahead of the tool in the chip or it hardens ahead of the tool and burns the tool up. So use low rpm and high feed if you're drilling or machining it. Stainless steel "wears" better then regular steel (due to the chromium) but it's NOT stronger. It's actually slightly weaker.

In making a cast club you start with an expensive tool steel hollow dies in the shape of the club head that are split in two pieces top and bottom (with entry and exit holes called ports and gates). They fill that with molten wax and cool it. The mold opens up and you have a wax club head. This wax "club head" is then spray coated with a special sand mixture which hardens to make a sand mold around the wax with a place to pour metal in and another place for it to exit. The wax is melted out including the wax ports and gates. Now you have a hollow sand mold in the shape of the club head. The hot molten steel is poured in the "gates" (entry holes) and allowed to exit the "risers" to get rid of porosity (air bubbles in the molten metal) and after it cools the sand is removed from around the metal to reveal the club head Which usually has to be finished (polished or whatever) and the port and gate are cut off to make the final product.

They make some really good "cream" type rust removal stuff I tried once for small areas. Other ways to do it if it's really rusty are to "pickle" it in acid (there are places that do this) and "bake" it afterwards at 200 degrees for an hour to remove any hydrogen that might have entered the steel from the acid reaction (can cause hydrogen embrittlement). Another way is to "bead blast" it off with a tool used in most factories or many auto painting shops. Just make sure they use sand and not hardened "shot" or you'll peen up your club. After you remove the rust oil it since you've now exposed "fresh metal" to the atmosphere and it will REALLY rust fast if not protected.

Whew!!! Hope this answers everyone's questions, LOL.

(I get that slice once in awhile also. Haven't found an answer)

I saw this recently on "How Its Made" on The Discovery Channel. It was pretty cool to watch. I think it was the Ping Factory. Anyway, it was exactly like WBL says. Very cool to see it actually happen.

 

[warbirdlover]

To keep it simple I described only one club head at a time. Actually they make numerous wax club heads and make a "tree" with the sand over them so they can pour numerous heads each time.