Can my 3 wood tell me anything about finding the right driver?

[DH4816]

I have always been terrible off the tee. Until lately that is. I picked up a Cleveland Hi-Bore 3 wood that I hit very well (for me). I think it is a couple years old rather than the newest model, I got a really good deal on it when the local golf shop had a tent sale.

I hit fairways more consistently with it and can hit it pretty far (again for me). I regularly hit it 240-250 and really caught one the other day that had to be 265-270. It was the farthest I've ever hit any club, usually I hit my driver about 250 if I can keep it straight.

Here's my question. Can I translate anything from the 3 wood to the driver? In other words do the shaft, swing weight, etc. of the 3 wood tell me anything about what driver I would hit well? I have to think that as well as I'm hitting the 3 wood I should be able to hit a driver farther than I do any of the ones I have tried.

The Hi-Bore has the stock 55 gram Fujikura regular flex shaft in it.

Any advice on what this club may tell me about what type of driver I should try?

DH

 

[FATC1TY]

I have always been terrible off the tee. Until lately that is. I picked up a Cleveland Hi-Bore 3 wood that I hit very well (for me). I think it is a couple years old rather than the newest model, I got a really good deal on it when the local golf shop had a tent sale.

I hit fairways more consistently with it and can hit it pretty far (again for me). I regularly hit it 240-250 and really caught one the other day that had to be 265-270. It was the farthest I've ever hit any club, usually I hit my driver about 250 if I can keep it straight.

Here's my question. Can I translate anything from the 3 wood to the driver? In other words do the shaft, swing weight, etc. of the 3 wood tell me anything about what driver I would hit well? I have to think that as well as I'm hitting the 3 wood I should be able to hit a driver farther than I do any of the ones I have tried.

The Hi-Bore has the stock 55 gram Fujikura regular flex shaft in it.

Any advice on what this club may tell me about what type of driver I should try?

DH

Not to be an ass, but if you hit your 3-wood 240-250 and when you rail one, it's over 260.. And where you want it to land..

Why do you want a driver then?

Stick with that I say.

 

[DH4816]

Not to be an ass, but if you hit your 3-wood 240-250 and when you rail one, it's over 260.. And where you want it to land..

Why do you want a driver then?

Stick with that I say.

Trust me that thought has occured to me. The answer is that if I have the ability to hit my 3 wood that way (and it is an aberration, I'm not overly long with my irons) then maybe I can find a driver I hit farther. I know distance isn't the end all be all of golf but it can certainly make things easier playing shorter irons into the green.

I think most of us are always trying to improve our game and I have to believe that I won't reach my full potential if I never find a driver I can hit.

DH

 

[JEFF4i]

Why not try a HiBore driver that matches?

 

[slickpitt]

In my experience... hitting a 3-wood well does not automatically mean you will hit a driver of the same brand/model well. I hit a Tour Burner driver but I prefer the Callaway FT 3-wood over the Taylomade.

 

[FATC1TY]

I got with the flow then, because I absolutely crush my 3 wood off the tee or the deck, with a gorgeous low penetrating flight. It's the Burner Tour TP strong 3 wood.

I've finally gotten the same thing, albeit harder to replicate each time as I can with my 3 wood with my Burner.

I'd say try the cleveland.. Seems it's rather popular.

 

[ezra76]

Shaft is more important than the head. Fuji 55g should be lower kick, higher launch. Let me take a look at a few clubs and see what has a similar stock shaft.

Actually, the Hibore driver had that same shaft. Here's one on Global Golf http://www.globalgolf.com/product/golfclub.aspx?pid=1001048&gd=3 if it doesn't come up change the shaft flex box to regular, should be an 11.5* with the 55g Rflex.

 

[RickinMA]

The loft probably has alot to do with it. You might want to try a High Launch or 13* driver - I think Cleveland even makes a large driver sized 2-wood with 16* of loft.

People who hit their 3 wood further than their driver usually have a driver with too little loft for their swing or swingspeed.

The 3 wood is probably a more reasonable length too - drivers have gotten longer and longer over the years and many people will hit the ball straighter with a shorter, more controllable club

 

[DH4816]

Thanks. I might try the Hi Bore with the same shaft but wanted some ideas of what other folks had experienced. Dropping several hundred on a driver isn't a small deal to me.

Length might play a role. I actually hit my wife's driver ok if I really slow my swing down--it is a Lady's Cobra and is much shorter than any driver I've tried.

Any tips on how to determine the right driver loft for me?

DH

 

[mddubya]

You can pick up a HiBore XL for around $100.00 right now in great shape used. It's a great driver, see my sig, I have 2 of them and I'm thinking about picking up another one for a spare Tour version. Don't waste your time with the XLS, it's a POS from everything I've read. The HiBore XL has a slightly closed face for people that tend to hit a slice. The XL Tour model is slightly open faced if you fight a hook.

Like has already been said, try and find one with the same shaft as your 3 wood and don't go with to low of a loft, I wouldn't go any lower than a 10.5º from what you've said.

 

[mddubya]

Here you go DH, ask and you shall recieve.


Cleveland Hi Bore XL Tour Driver From the Tour Van RARE - eBay (item 180286627021 end time Sep-13-08 19:01:56 PDT)

 

[DH4816]

Ok, so I'm looking at both a Hi-Bore and a Hi-Bore XL with the same shaft. What is the difference between the two clubs?

I also think it is interesting the make a 16 degree driver when my 3 wood is 15 degrees but 2 inches shorter.

DH