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- #61
ezra76
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I think I might have this GD thing figured out. I read that cold start mixture is controlled by the MAP sensor. Once the Oxygen sensor reaches a certain temp. it takes over and runs in a "closed loop" with the ECU. The symtoms are what a bad MAP would produce. That would explain why it runs fine once it's warm, why it runs fine after driving and sitting a short time and why the longer it sits, the harder it is to start.
Unfortunately nobody has one and they are $86 at the cheapest place to order. I found a place online where I can get new NKG wires and a MAP for $107.
If this isn't it, I also read about the crank position sensor. Basically the car only fires when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. CPS figures this out I guess. So if that were bad then it's just not telling the ignition to fire.
I've already been through everything else on the list pretty much. This is the next step. Wish me luck. If I get this thing starting smooth and can clear the CEL, I think it's going straight up trade for an F150 4x4 if the finance company will let me swap titles.
Unfortunately nobody has one and they are $86 at the cheapest place to order. I found a place online where I can get new NKG wires and a MAP for $107.
If this isn't it, I also read about the crank position sensor. Basically the car only fires when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. CPS figures this out I guess. So if that were bad then it's just not telling the ignition to fire.
I've already been through everything else on the list pretty much. This is the next step. Wish me luck. If I get this thing starting smooth and can clear the CEL, I think it's going straight up trade for an F150 4x4 if the finance company will let me swap titles.