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Epoxy removal....tips?

Rockford35

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What's the best way to clean out the epoxy residue from hosels after removing a set of shafts?

Anyone have any "home remedies"? Or, simple ways of doing this?

I'm also interested in finding a decent removal solvent. I've heard acetone based fingernail polish removal is the cat's meow. Any truth to that wive's
tale?

Any suggestions or comments are welcome.

R35
 
The easiest way to clean the head is to drill it out. Use a bit just smaller than the hole.
Just after inserting the shaft, use grip solvent ona paper towel to wipe off the excess. If you let it dry on a painted surface you are in trouble.
I few seconds to wipe it down and you wont have a problem.
 
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OB,

Do you need to use solvent in the hosel when drilling it out? Or will it just flake free?

Thanks for the tips.

R35

....another question, maybe you have the answer...a .355 tip taper turns into a .370 about 1.5" from the tip, does it not? Which means a longer ferrule should be fine if it's .370? I basically need a ferrule that covers the O.D. of the hosel an that extends beyond the area of the taper that is less than .370, correct?
 
I don't know why you didn't believe me when I told you the same thing. :p
 
Just drill it out you don't need solvent.
We use 370 ferrules on all our irons, and then turn them down to the width of the hosel.
 
Rockford35 said:
What's the best way to clean out the epoxy residue from hosels after removing a set of shafts?

Anyone have any "home remedies"? Or, simple ways of doing this?

I'm also interested in finding a decent removal solvent. I've heard acetone based fingernail polish removal is the cat's meow. Any truth to that wive's
tale?

Any suggestions or comments are welcome.

R35
After I drill out the expoxy, I use a metal bristle brush to really clean the surfaces inside the hosel. You can find them at Golfsmith designed for wood or iron shafts or find them elsewhere. They leave a good surface on the hosel walls for the next round of expoxy to adhere too (I used to roll up some sandpaper and clean the hosels, but the bristle brushes do a better job and are much faster and easier to use.) I also use acetone on a q-tip to clean out the hosel to make sure than I got all the dust/crud particles as well to ensure a clean hosel prior to re-shafting.
 
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Slingblade61 said:
I don't know why you didn't believe me when I told you the same thing. :p

Ya, but everyone has their "This way works better" home remedies.:D

Just trying to nail down the lazy man's method of madness for shaft extraction and insertion. (Insert jokes here).

'Tim, thanks for the tip on the brushes. I'll probably pick one up when I order my grips. Thanks for the tip.

R35
 
One more little tip. To make sure the shaft is tight, cut about a 2 inch strand of fishing line and put it in the hosel with just a little sticking out. When you put the shaft in it will be tight. Cut off the excess and slide the ferrule into place. Make sure the shaft goes all the way in and you will have no problems.
 
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obagain said:
One more little tip. To make sure the shaft is tight, cut about a 2 inch strand of fishing line and put it in the hosel with just a little sticking out. When you put the shaft in it will be tight. Cut off the excess and slide the ferrule into place. Make sure the shaft goes all the way in and you will have no problems.


What test should I use? :D

I'll have to remember that. Is that just to avoid any slop/play in the head if it's off a bit?

R35
 
Yes, it will give you a tight fit every time.
 
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Thanks OB.

R35
 

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