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New driver advice needed.

Once again, thanks for so many useful comments. Basically, I never actually 'owned' the Cobra, I was going to buy it but got stiffed on the price (they put it up) so I decided to use the opportunity to gain advice on whats next. I knew I liked the Cobra, but I think I would have had to change the shaft as the standard stiff wasn't all that 'stiff'!!!

As i happens, at time of writing I have bought two new clubs, totally by accident as I made a large booboo on Ebay, and didn't realise I was bidding on two clubs - so I am now the owner of a 905R and a 905T! Whoops!

I got the R for £160, and the T for £73 - both brand new, both with stiff Graffoloy blue shafts.

They should be with me tomorrow, so will post up what happens!!!!!!! DAM YOU EBAY FOR HELPING ME SCREW UP LOL

Good luck with those drivers. Keep in mind that Titleist is a bore-through head, meaning that the Graf blues will play as if they were tipped. They will be extremely stiff. So basically don't judge those heads based on that shaft selection.
 
Good luck with those drivers. Keep in mind that Titleist is a bore-through head, meaning that the Graf blues will play as if they were tipped. They will be extremely stiff. So basically don't judge those heads based on that shaft selection.

Unless they are factory install, wherein they put regulars in to achieve the same feel as a stiff.

R35
 
Good luck with those drivers. Keep in mind that Titleist is a bore-through head, meaning that the Graf blues will play as if they were tipped. They will be extremely stiff. So basically don't judge those heads based on that shaft selection.


Thats awesome advice, unfortunately I haven't a clue what you mean :eek:

Sorry for the ignorance......
 
Dale,

Titleist, and for the longest time, Callaway have bore thru heads, which means that the shaft actually exits the bottom of the head. If you turn one over, you'll see this.

When an aftermarket shaft is put into these types of heads, it eliminates the first 2.25+" of the shaft, changing tha characteristics of the shafts tip in many case. Which means, you might be buying a stiff, but artificially tipping it 2" and making it way more stiff than you intended.

To curb this, Titleist and Callaway often insert regular shafts into their heads and mark them as stiff or firm flex.

A traditional driver head only has a little over 1.25-1.50" of insert, making them play more to flex as the manufacturer intended.

That being said, some shaft companies assume that you are going to put it into a Bore Thru head, and make the shafts accordingly. Therefore, if you're putting that type of shaft into a conventional head, you have to tip trim accordingly.

Isn't golf equipment fun? :D

R35
 
Oh, and don't feel ignorant. It's all learned by asking questions, trust me. :)

R35
 
Blimey!! How technical can this game get!! lol

Well here is the low down, my booboo on Ebay as landed me with the 905T and the 905R, both with the same shafts. Thanks to this Ebay seller now holding the all time speed delivery record for me at least *16 hours from purchase to delivery!! How cool is that!! the clubs arrived at 8am this morning. I've just got back from the range, and after starting out hitting the 'T' better (straighter and more consistent) I finished up by smacking the 'R' further with a more controlled draw (if someone here ever gets to play golf with me they will realise that a draw for my drive is 'The' holy grail!!!! and if they seem me produce one I suggest going and buying lottery tickets that night!!!!)

Anyway, I think I am going to keep the 905R, I was fairly tired at the end, and if I can hit that club better when more tired, then maybe that says that it is the more forgiving club. I'm also happy that I didn't have any issues launching an 8.5 degree driver either.

Things on the course aren't all bad..... My aim now is to get to 6 or 7 by the end of the year.

Thanks so much for all the help guys.
 
Right on, Dale.

Keep us up to date on how things progress.

Cheers,

R35
 

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