Shorter driver shaft, dohhhhh!!!!!

[Pa Jayhawk]

2 questions, please:

where do you add weight on a draw/offset driver ?

if your not especially muscled up, could the lighter swingweight give more swing speed, than the original longer shaft, negating the need for head weight?

You would add weight on a draw/offset driver in the same way you would on any other driver. Many feel that if you add weight towards the heel of a club it could better lead to a draw, towards the toe would inhibit closing the face leading to a fade, towards the bottom would change the COG and allow for a higher ball flight, although the majority feel that you would have to add so much weight that in order to change these characteristics, that where you add the weight is irrelevant. It is mainly to allow you to better feel the club head, and as mentioned before will also help counteract the change in the flex of the shaft where cutting it down will make it perform stiffer.

For the second part, logic would tell me that you may be able to swing faster with less weight on the club head, although the need for such weight is not really to gain speed but more being able to feel the head and therefore allowing you to better control the clubhead. Although many do not notice a difference in a few swing weights. So if you swing faster and it leads to poor tempo and control of the clubhead, you would likely negate the effect of more speed and not gain the better contact you are searching for by cutting down the driver.

Realize the idea behind cutting the shaft down is not to gain speed, it is to improve the ability to find the sweet spot on the clubface through better control. In doing so you will gain more distance from the solid contact on the sweet spot as opposed to off centered hits with more swing speed. Control and clean contact is the key.

You will actually likely lose Swing Speed with a shorter shaft. So if you key is to gain speed and not control, you may be better suited to look elsewhere. Although many will likely gain distance with even the slower speed as a result of the clean contact with the sweet spot. In most case it will lead to a great deal more control.

 

[Nikonut]

thanks, thats worthy of a cut and paste for later use

like mddubya and others, the ball seems to find the fairway more often when choking down.
if all goes well, I will have it also done to my "real" driver - non-offset adams with the more open face.

 

[EddieC]

Speaking of adding weight. Anyone ever found a lead tape that would actually stay put on a driver? I've purchased the kind that comes in little fat strips (about 3 inches long) and also the kind that comes in pre packaged lengths of like 10 inches. I've applied it to the bottom of the driver and it usually only makes it about 4 holes and then gone. Maybe it's my technique for applying....any tricks to it...like maybe adding heat to melt the sticky part?

 

[BigJim13]

Speaking of adding weight. Anyone ever found a lead tape that would actually stay put on a driver? I've purchased the kind that comes in little fat strips (about 3 inches long) and also the kind that comes in pre packaged lengths of like 10 inches. I've applied it to the bottom of the driver and it usually only makes it about 4 holes and then gone. Maybe it's my technique for applying....any tricks to it...like maybe adding heat to melt the sticky part?

I bought high density lead tape from golfsmith, 3/4" x 50" and it sticks like glue. Its like 6.99 for the roll and works much better than the pre cut strips.

 

[FATC1TY]

I've got a Fubuki coming this week, that I'll have playing at 44" in my R9.. I've realized that the longer drivers suck balls.

 

[Pa Jayhawk]

Speaking of adding weight. Anyone ever found a lead tape that would actually stay put on a driver? I've purchased the kind that comes in little fat strips (about 3 inches long) and also the kind that comes in pre packaged lengths of like 10 inches. I've applied it to the bottom of the driver and it usually only makes it about 4 holes and then gone. Maybe it's my technique for applying....any tricks to it...like maybe adding heat to melt the sticky part?

I bought high density lead tape from golfsmith, 3/4" x 50" and it sticks like glue. Its like 6.99 for the roll and works much better than the pre cut strips.

I use the Golfsmith tape as well, but in a 1/2" x 75'. Bought like 3 roles of it thinking I would constantly have it fall off and it is not always easy to find in the rolls, have never had it fall off. It even takes a little work to peel it off, but it will come off and clean up.
Golfsmith.com
They make it in a 1" as well.

edit 1 - have only used it on my Driver, FW's and hybrid. Have not tried it on irons, but imagine it would work just as well as good as it sticks. ... and I assume by "bottom of the driver" you mean the back portion and not where the sole hits the ground? Sorry, but I actually though of mentioning that in my other post where I said it didn't matter where you apply the tape. BTW, one think I do with the tape, is after it is on, I kind of smooth the edges against the surface with the blunt part of the handle on scissors, and make the top piece slightly longer, to keep the edges from catching on things. Basically makes it almost smooth against the driver.

 

[Nikonut]

Ball Crushing time

got the club back, it feels real good at address, keeping fingers crossed.
I'm going to try to kill the ball, lol.

a shout out - thanks - to mddubya for the post, motivating me to get er done

 

[mddubya]

Ball Crushing time

got the club back, it feels real good at address, keeping fingers crossed.
I'm going to try to kill the ball, lol.

a shout out - thanks - to mddubya for the post, motivating me to get er done

Hope it works out as well for you as it did me, I still can't believe I hit 5 out of 7 fairways, and one miss was just barely in the rough.

Good luck!

 

[Nikonut]

had it on the grass outside of work, the backswing part feels more natural, in that first foot or so, back from the ball.

 

[indacup]

Look at it this way guys....

Lets say you increase your club from 44.5 to 45"....if your average swing speed was 95, it can (potentially) go up to no more than 95.2 mph which, with all things the same equate to a POSSIBLE distance increase of 1.4yards.

Now, lets go the other route...same swing speed, but now you DECREASE shaft length from 44.5 down to 44, and now increase your smash factor by 2 points. That would lead to a distance increase of 5.4 yards.

 

[Nikonut]

ALL OF THE SUDDEN.

I am outdriving the young bucks on the course.

According to course markers, the ball has stopped at wrx internet distances.
I guess my 2nd shot with an 7 to SW iron is proof enough to me

My wife may not agree, but shortening the shaft was an awesome thing to do.

just an update to an important thread.

 

[FATC1TY]

Something is in the water.. Everyone taking hack saws to their shafts.

I told my old lady I bang 'em better with a shorter shaft.. She rolled her eyes!

My 3-wood is in the corner crying.. It saw the rusty hacksaw I dug out this evening.. It's time for it's snip.

 

[Johnny Par]

Time to dust off the cutoff wheel. Will be trimming the Rapture V2 this weekend.

Nikonut, did you add lead tape after trimming the butt down?

 

[FATC1TY]

Time to dust off the cutoff wheel. Will be trimming the Rapture V2 this weekend.

Nikonut, did you add lead tape after trimming the butt down?

Depending on how much you trim off, try it without tape, and see what you think... Sometime it works out.

 

[Nikonut]

No tape, or any extra weight. ymmv!

just by the way...

Tonight the head twisted loose! must be from watching Jack Hamm's Hammer show!!
My swing must have gotten more poooowwwwerful

At least I had an excuse for the resulting slice into the water...
this club was reshafted a few weeks ago by a local shop.

pulled the shaft, cleaned it and now epoxied. I could swear, there was virtually no residue...ie signs of epoxy in the hosel or on the shaft...