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New day new problem with my game

dstovall13

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Ok here goes recently i've been having trouble getting the ball in the air. I've teed the ball up high, medium and low. regardless of how its teed it goes about 200 yards about a foot off the ground bouncing and rolling most of the way. I have the taylor made r7 quad driver with the movable weights would you try changing the weights or do you think its more of a problem with my swing which i dont think has changed that much from when i was hitting it higher i'm trying to keep my arm straighter so i can hit the ball straight i've gone to the driving range and tried to work on it but it just gets frustrating and i end up just using my 5 wood which i can hit further than my driver right now. Any ideas on how to fix this would be very appreciated. I've tried standing closer and further away from the ball moving it up and back in my stance i just cant figure it out.

Update:

Sold the r7 Quad and went with my old TM 200 Steel and i've been bombing it. i guess this just proves the newer technology isn't always better. I'm gonna stick with the 200 till the wheels fall off (figuratively)
 
I had that problem with too stiff (tip stiff?) shafts. If your swingspeed isn't high enough that happens. And what loft is your driver?
 
WBL, I don't think the shaft can be to blame for a trajectory THAT terrible.

dstovall, I think you're hitting the ball with the very bottom edge of the club. There's just no way to hit the ball with the clubface with a driver and have it travel that flat along the ground, unless you're delofting the driver enough to take a divot. You should NOT be delofting the driver, btw.

Just work on actually making contact with the center of the face. Take some smooth, short swings and hit the ball with the center of the clubface. Watch the ball rise MUCH more than it has been for you, then apply speed.

You could be falling back away from the target and picking the club up, which would cause leading-edge contact. You could be jerking your left shoulder up too abruptly and effectively making the club "shorter." No way to know from here. Feel it out yourself.
 
WBL, its a 10.5º stiff shaft. I'm not divoting with the driver i do think i may be laying the club down too flat and creating 0 loft for the club (almost like teeing off with my putter) i moved the weights around a little and am going to the driving range tomorrow to try and figure this out. thanks for the help fellas.
 
WBL, I don't think the shaft can be to blame for a trajectory THAT terrible.

dstovall, I think you're hitting the ball with the very bottom edge of the club. There's just no way to hit the ball with the clubface with a driver and have it travel that flat along the ground, unless you're delofting the driver enough to take a divot. You should NOT be delofting the driver, btw.

Just work on actually making contact with the center of the face. Take some smooth, short swings and hit the ball with the center of the clubface. Watch the ball rise MUCH more than it has been for you, then apply speed.

You could be falling back away from the target and picking the club up, which would cause leading-edge contact. You could be jerking your left shoulder up too abruptly and effectively making the club "shorter." No way to know from here. Feel it out yourself.

+1. What he said. I think you're blading it. I tee it lower and try to hit down on it when this happens to me.
 
Sounds to me like it might be time to visit your local PGA pro so that he/she can watch your swing and see what you are doing wrong.
 
You could be falling back away from the target and picking the club up, which would cause leading-edge contact. You could be jerking your left shoulder up too abruptly and effectively making the club "shorter." No way to know from here. Feel it out yourself.

If this were the case, he would occasionally catch one higher on the face and that would produce a really high trajectory. I think if every single shot is coming off really low then he could have most of his weight foreward. If the ball is teed up then he most likely won't be taking a divot. I just find it hard to believe that he is hitting every single shot thin. Dstovall, you might try to move the ball all the way up to the middle of your front foot, this will help keep you from hitting down on the ball so much. Also, make sure you finish high with your hands. I think bakemono gave the best advice though.
 
Thanks for the help guys moving it up in my stance helped a lot and my local pro helped me with coiling my body up and exploding through the ball. He however didnt know much about the different weighting options for the taylor made driver if ya'll know much about the different setting any information would be appreciated i cant find much about it online. Thanks again
 
More weight in the heel (shaft side) = tendancy to draw, and likewise for the opposite side regarding fade. What you're doing with the weights is "slowing down" part of the clubhead to either increase or limit rotation. The lighter side is faster.
 
I think you are putting WAY too much credence in the marketing scam that is the movable weights.

There is no movable weight setting for "low-lining worm burners".

Take a piece of masking tape, or any tape really, and put it on the face of your driver. Then hit some balls with the tape on the face. This will tell you where you are hitting the ball on the face. If you are. Once you know you are actually hitting the face, then dialing it in becomes much, much easier.
 
If it has four movable weights, move the heavier ones to the back and the lighter ones toward the face. This will lower the center of gravity and will produce a higher ball flight.
 
I think you are putting WAY too much credence in the marketing scam that is the movable weights.

There is no movable weight setting for "low-lining worm burners".

Take a piece of masking tape, or any tape really, and put it on the face of your driver. Then hit some balls with the tape on the face. This will tell you where you are hitting the ball on the face. If you are. Once you know you are actually hitting the face, then dialing it in becomes much, much easier.

That's a great idea! I was going to say use chalk or something to mark it but that works too. I'd say its with your club angle/where your making contact or something more simple like your shoulders or swaying too much.
 
I think you are putting WAY too much credence in the marketing scam that is the movable weights.

There is no movable weight setting for "low-lining worm burners".

Take a piece of masking tape, or any tape really, and put it on the face of your driver. Then hit some balls with the tape on the face. This will tell you where you are hitting the ball on the face. If you are. Once you know you are actually hitting the face, then dialing it in becomes much, much easier.

That's a great idea! I was going to say use chalk or something to mark it but that works too. I'd say its with your club angle/where your making contact or something more simple like your shoulders or swaying too much.
 
I think you are putting WAY too much credence in the marketing scam that is the movable weights.

There is no movable weight setting for "low-lining worm burners".

Take a piece of masking tape, or any tape really, and put it on the face of your driver. Then hit some balls with the tape on the face. This will tell you where you are hitting the ball on the face. If you are. Once you know you are actually hitting the face, then dialing it in becomes much, much easier.

This is a great idea and I've done it hundreds of times with all of my clubs. I never hit a drive or any shot for that matter without looking at the clubface to confirm where it felt like I hit it. The real power comes in making little changes to your ball location, tee height, and swing and being able to see the resulting changes by the marks left on the clubface. (I've also used a dry erase marker and colored one side of the ball)
 

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