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OK, I've finally had enough of my driver...

Sandy bo bandy,

I to play a r5 type D, and have had the same problem you are haveing.

.......


8-10 balls later I was hittin them 260 down the pipe with a slight cut.

This is exactly why i don't beleive in draw bias or fade bias drivers. It's all a mental thing. You can fade or draw any driver if you put the right swing on it.

Good show, TCG.

R35
 
From what I've read it sounds like you should try a lower lofted driver. My guess is you're over rotating your hands to bring the flight down
 
How does this sound for a plan then:

1) Finally get a lesson or two to get the technical aspect sorted out
2) Work on what I learn for a few weeks to get someway towards working it out (I *love* going down to the range no matter what the weather!)
3) Work on things until all the new super-drivers are out, pushing down the prices of what's around at the moment, then go and get a fitting to see what can be done to the ball flight

How does that sound?

And if the weather gets to a level where I can go out and sneak a round or two in, drop the driver and start with the 19* hyrid - there nothing at the only course here that'll be open that I can lay up to with that anyway.

Sandy

Sounds like a good plan to me!! :D
 
This is exactly why i don't beleive in draw bias or fade bias drivers. It's all a mental thing. You can fade or draw any driver if you put the right swing on it.

Good show, TCG.

R35

I agree, but you can be damn sure the next driver I buy will have a square or open face without all the crap weight in the heel. My natural swing produces a draw with every club and I dont need any help from closed faces and internal weighting to close the face.

I can hit little cuts with my r5, but I have to hold the face open at address and have a little "forward press".
 
Face and weighting play a huge role in my ability to hit a club. I almost always leave my R5TP slighty right or pushed right, it is slightly open. R510TP I hit pretty much straight from a slightly closed stance, 3-5yd. fade from square and then as much I want from open. Closed faces, I pull the crap out of. Even my old 360XD 10.5*, I hit massive long high draws with it but I can't play it because I pull it hard every now and then and it's an automatic 3stroke miss. I can't fade that club so it's useless, at least 75% of my shots are fades.

The move to square in all clubs was a decision based mostly on how well I played with the Miura's. I want the same swing from short irons to driver. The swing that hit the no offset iron straight hit a closed driver dead left hard. Just as a slight fade swing with my R510 produced a quacker with the Hibore.
 
I agree, but you can be damn sure the next driver I buy will have a square or open face without all the crap weight in the heel. My natural swing produces a draw with every club and I dont need any help from closed faces and internal weighting to close the face.

I can hit little cuts with my r5, but I have to hold the face open at address and have a little "forward press".

Hence my gravity towards the Tour version the the HiBore. I definitely don't fight a slice, even with a neutral grip.

R35
 
Golf Pro told me the following-

"Golf is a very simple game that boils down to just 4 things":

1 - For a right hander your ball will go left if the face is closed at impact

2 - The ball will hook if you swing inside out

3 - The ball will go right if the club face is open at impact

4 - The ball will slice if you swing outside in

"He said these are the only 4 things on earth that make the ball go left or right and hook or slice"

This particular Club Pro who is retired and a friend of mine that I play with often then asked me the following:

"Your not to friggen dumb to learn 4 simple things are you and if you only hook and go left as I do the list is only 2 things instead of 4"

Sadly I must be to dumb because I can not master the 2 simple things, which pleases him greatly and he gets to tell me how dumb I am each time we play.
 

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