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X-mas Mistake

HokieHacker

Headed for the 19th hole
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I decided that my wife needed a new set of irons for Christmas. I bought a set of Cleveland HiBore Hybrid Irons with regular graphite shafts thinking that they would be on the more flexible side (like all the OEM graphite shafts I have ever hit). Unfortunately, she did not hit them well when we went to the course this weekend. I decided that I should check the flex since she was having trouble getting any height, and these clubs actually flex stiffer than labeled. I need to know if I should reshaft, or sell and re-purchase the senior shafts? I found some relatively inexpensive graphite shafts, but I have never reshafted a graphite club. Is this a job for a relative novice or should I seek professional assistance? I looked at the Golfsmith site and it seemed to be the same process as removing a steel shaft, but I assume you need to be more patient applying heat to a graphite club (if you don't want to cause damage). Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
I decided that my wife needed a new set of irons for Christmas. I bought a set of Cleveland HiBore Hybrid Irons with regular graphite shafts thinking that they would be on the more flexible side (like all the OEM graphite shafts I have ever hit). Unfortunately, she did not hit them well when we went to the course this weekend. I decided that I should check the flex since she was having trouble getting any height, and these clubs actually flex stiffer than labeled. I need to know if I should reshaft, or sell and re-purchase the senior shafts? I found some relatively inexpensive graphite shafts, but I have never reshafted a graphite club. Is this a job for a relative novice or should I seek professional assistance? I looked at the Golfsmith site and it seemed to be the same process as removing a steel shaft, but I assume you need to be more patient applying heat to a graphite club (if you don't want to cause damage). Thanks in advance for any advice.

Pulling graphite shafts with a shaft puller is and preserving the shaft requires some practice. Reshafting with already cut shafts once the shafts are prepped is no big deal. Cutting and gluing as long as tip diameters are correct is easy. With the cost of the Hibore heads I would think a good golf shop would be the way to go. Unless you want to learn how. Then Pandora's box is opened.

If you want to learn how someone on this site will head you in the right direction.
 
First off, if you bought the clubs from a dealership/shop and they ARE mislabeled, then they should take them back...if not, contact Cleveland golf at 714- 889-1300 (ask for Chris Beck...or anyone in business relations) explain your situation and I am sure they will help you.

Other wise, before dabbling in reshafting your first time, take them to a pro who can TEST the existing shafts and assure a softer flex is installed correctly.
 
If they are almost new, why not sell them and try something more "feminine"? At the end of the run its a little bit more expensive but the right way to do it I think...
 
First off, if you bought the clubs from a dealership/shop and they ARE mislabeled, then they should take them back...if not, contact Cleveland golf at 714- 889-1300 (ask for Chris Beck...or anyone in business relations) explain your situation and I am sure they will help you.

Other wise, before dabbling in reshafting your first time, take them to a pro who can TEST the existing shafts and assure a softer flex is installed correctly.

This is exactly what I would do. Go right to the source, they'll likely help you out. :)

R35
 
But there is no definition of shaft flex, right? How do you know these are "mislabeled"? If you just THINK they're stiffer than an "r-flex" should be, I'd say that doesn't cut it. If the BOX says "R-Flex" and the clubs say "S-Flex," that might be worthy.
 
Shafts

Thanks for the info. The shafts are labeled "R" but flexed in the stiff range at the pro shop. The pro said that there is no system for establishing stafff labeling and it is usually a way to rate the flex in the individual models. I will contact Cleveland, but I assume that it will be a case of caveat emptor.
 

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