Why are the after market shafts so much better? Which one for me?

[The Salt Vampire]

What performance differences would I notice with an upgraded shaft? Which one(s) should I look given the notes below? Thanks.

I am using a Cleveland Hi-Bore 10* (last year's model), with the stock stiff shaft. The shaft has a low kick point, so I hit it a higher than the green Aldila I had in my old driver. I was sort of fitted for the driver and was launching my old driver too low.

I have one of those Balance Certified counterweights under the grip.

My swing speed averages about 119mph with the driver. Not sure of the ball speed. My standard miss is a hook, not a big one, but calling it a draw would be generous. I hit about 40% of my fairways and the misses are usually playable.

I like this driver, but was wondering if I could get more performance with a better shaft. I do hit it higher, but also find that it "floats" at times and does not run out. I don't work the ball much. Usually just try to play the "shot that I have today".

Any fitting advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Sandy]

Your swing speed is 119mph???

You must hit that 73* wedge about 100ft straight up in the air!!!

At that speed you'd be needing an X-flex and I'd be amazed that you couldn't get any head lifting the ball up off the ground given the force that would be going into it on impact. For that swing speed I'm amazed you were needing a high-trajectory shaft and high-launching head!

 

[indacup]

Wow. I don't know what's more impressive a 119 SS or the ability to hit a 73° wedge!

 

[RickinMA]

aftermarket shafts are often better because:
1) the shaft should be better suited to your particular swing (I need high launch, so I got a pro launch blue shaft - others need low launch so they go with other shafts) - OEM shafts are usually some shaft they think will be an OK fit for the majority of golfers, instead of the right fit for you personally
2) OEMs often spend very little on their shafts - I think i've read less than $15 - which is needed to protect margins - it's a tough business

also, with a 10* head and low kick stock cleveland shaft along with a 119mph swingspeed, you probably hit that driver higher than I can hit my PW - if you were fit for a 10* head with a 119 swingspeed you must have some sort of crazy negative AoA

 

[Rockford35]

Wow. I don't know what's more impressive a 119 SS or the ability to hit a 73° wedge!

Agreed!

R35

 

[JEFF4i]

Aftermarket shafts are better for two reasons.

Generally club manufacturors put crap in their clubs, especially TM.

Second, you can get a shaft "Taylormade," to you.

 

[twofast2s]

i swing consistently at about 110-115 and my V2 stiff is at the threshold of been too soft.

perhaps the reason you're drawing the ball is due to the shaft being too soft. i'm the one who believes in fitting shafts more than the head design to hit the ball well (i'm trying to make this last sentence less-sexual as i'm laughing right now.. LOL).

 

[The Salt Vampire]

You must hit that 73* wedge about 100ft straight up in the air!!!

At that speed you'd be needing an X-flex and I'd be amazed that you couldn't get any head lifting the ball up off the ground given the force that would be going into it on impact. For that swing speed I'm amazed you were needing a high-trajectory shaft and high-launching head!

The 73* is the most fun club that I have. It does go straight up and just drops straight down. The ball mark it leaves is more of a crater. I hit it about 65 yards with a full swing.

I hadn't really thought of X flexes, but should. I just worry about it feeling like a telephone pole. I am 41 and quite creaky and don't want to feel like I have to swing my hardest (maybe that's psychological).

As for the need for high-launch, I was at a demo day last year and to optimize everything that's what we figured out. I do hit it far, but it was often a low line drive in the past.

 

[The Salt Vampire]

aftermarket shafts are often better because:
if you were fit for a 10* head with a 119 swingspeed you must have some sort of crazy negative AoA

Thanks for the other points about the cost of the shafts. I saw Fujikura on the shaft and assumed it was decent.

What does the part about crazy negative AoA mean? Thanks.

 

[Bravo]

Go back to the monitor where they measured your speed at 119 and have them recommend a shaft for you....

 

[goatster]

The 73* is the most fun club that I have. It does go straight up and just drops straight down. The ball mark it leaves is more of a crater. I hit it about 65 yards with a full swing.

I hadn't really thought of X flexes, but should. I just worry about it feeling like a telephone pole. I am 41 and quite creaky and don't want to feel like I have to swing my hardest (maybe that's psychological).

As for the need for high-launch, I was at a demo day last year and to optimize everything that's what we figured out. I do hit it far, but it was often a low line drive in the past.

if i hit a 73* wedge i think it would go backwards.my 58 is good for 50-60.

 

[The Salt Vampire]

Go back to the monitor where they measured your speed at 119 and have them recommend a shaft for you....

Good advice. I just setup an appointment for next week.

Possibly a dumb question, but does innovation drive the price? I have noticed that the Diamana shafts are in the $200 range and the Creation is around $400.

 

[RickinMA]

Good advice. I just setup an appointment for next week.

Possibly a dumb question, but does innovation drive the price? I have noticed that the Diamana shafts are in the $200 range and the Creation is around $400.

Salty,
lots of things drive the price

>innovation/technology
>materials
>production volumes and quality control/mfg tolerances
>along with marketing all drive prices

I'd like to think the shafts that cost a couple hundred dollars are more consistent thanks to the tighter mfg tolerances, but there are always exceptions to that

Picking the best shaft for you is not about price. I'm playing a $63 shaft in my driver right now - the shaft in your Cleveland probably cost them $15

I put a Royal Precision Saber Tour vector shaft into my brother-in-law's driver and he's killing the thing - he sold two other drivers and leaves a 2007 Big Bertha in the garage now - that shaft used to sell for like $52 but golfworks was clearing them out for $15

there are so many shafts out there that any golfer can probably find 15+ shafts that will produce great results

guys like Lyle and Rock are like professionals when it comes to golf equipment (Lyle is actually a club builder) - probably more detailed and knowledgable than many PGA pros.
They can feel and appreciate the differences between shafts - and these are the guys that probably benefit most from the higher end shafts

If you're just looking to dump the stock shaft - I wouldn't spend $200+ on the first reshaft - you'll most likely be thrilled with the results of a shaft that fits your swing in the $50-100 range

 

[RickinMA]

Thanks for the other points about the cost of the shafts. I saw Fujikura on the shaft and assumed it was decent.

What does the part about crazy negative AoA mean? Thanks.

AoA is angle of attack - if a 10* lofted head along with a low kick/high launch shaft maximizes your distance with a 119 mph swingspeed you must be delofting the club several degrees as you come through the ball

similar to playing the ball back in your stand to keep it low - you're making the club play to a lower effective loft

I don't have the numbers handly, but I think it's the guys with 119mph swing speeds that actually benefit from those crazy 6-7-8.5* driver heads that are out there

 

[The Salt Vampire]

AoA is angle of attack.

Excellent. Thanks for the advice.