How hard would it be...

[BigJim13]

For those of you that know and have experience in pulling shafts from Taylor Made clubs. How hard would it be to pull the shaft from this R7 TP fairway wood and install a new one? Do I need any special ferrules or anything like that or is it as simple as heating the hosel and pulling the shaft? This is the club I am looking at and from the pics, looks pretty straight forward... Thanks!

TAYLOR MADE GOLF CLUB R7 TP 15* 3 WOOD STEEL - (eBay item 180163496324 end time Oct-02-07 18:32:54 PDT)

 

[RickinMA]

looks like it would be a piece of cake to pull

steel is great that way, just need heat and a good set of gloves

 

[indacup]

For those of you that know and have experience in pulling shafts from Taylor Made clubs. How hard would it be to pull the shaft from this R7 TP fairway wood and install a new one? Do I need any special ferrules or anything like that or is it as simple as heating the hosel and pulling the shaft? This is the club I am looking at and from the pics, looks pretty straight forward... Thanks!

TAYLOR MADE GOLF CLUB R7 TP 15* 3 WOOD STEEL - (eBay item 180163496324 end time Oct-02-07 18:32:54 PDT)

I don't know why I'm drawing a blank...but I think that's a .350 dia. hosel...if so, you may need a shim.

Hell, if ya want, shoot it out to me, I'll reshaft it for ya and you pay actual shipping back to ya.

 

[FKA19]

r7tp head is .335

 

[BStone]

Since it is .335" hosel, you won't need anything but a standard .335" ferrule. It is a very easy job to get this one out and a new shaft in.

 

[ezra76]

Snag that if you still can. It says "bid now" still even though the auction has ended. That head is in NR mint condition.

That's supereasy. All you need is the epoxy and some sandpaper. Heat the hosel up, twist the shaft out. Put some heat to the emty hosel and pick out most of the melted epoxy with whatever. Use the sandpaper wrapped around something to get the rest.

The ferrule is easily saved. Just run it under hot water for a bit and slide it up the original shaft before you put heat to the hosel. The ferrules melt very easily... and use strong fingers, pliers will dig in and leave marks in it. Then just sand the epoxy off the tip, hot water again and slide it off. Again, hot water on the ferrule and the new shaft tip, slide it up on. I like to simply insert the new shaft in the head with no epoxy and set the ferrule so now I have my insertion depth. Mix epoxy, roll the tip around it, put it in and get some down in the hosel, roll it again and insert it for good. Put in a warm dry place overnight and she'll be good to go in the morning.

I just pulled a shaft, saved the ferrule and put in a different shaft. Almost got it done before the commercials were over.

It's that easy dude.

 

[ualtim]

Is it me or do the TM TP's have very little shaft in the hosel? When I pulled my TP Blueboard out of my R5 I was shocked on how little of the shaft is in the hosel. Compared to the other two driver shafts I pulled out of other driver heads that day, I would say the TM TP had at least 1/2 inch less shaft in the hosel. It was a piece of cake to pull as there was less of an epoxy bond to overcome.

 

[LyleG]

Most of the newer (r7, r5, burner) taylor drivers use 1.25 inch insersion depth in them. They also have very large bottom bore to ground measurements that will make a shaft play softer than it will in other heads. Depending on the stiffness of the shaft tip to begin with they can go from 1/4 to a little over 1/2 a flex softer.

 

[ualtim]

Thanks Lyle. I thought I was going crazy when I pulled the shaft on the R5. Of course, now that I have shortened the Blueboard to fit the R5 to 44", it will play even shorter if I ever decide to put it in another driver head that is non TM. I hope it works out in the R5.:laugh:

I also have one of those Killer B square driver heads that I built for someone else that they decided to trade back to me for another driver (A friend of mine who would not listen to me on shaft selection when I was ordering up the components, he insisted on a Grafalloy Pro Lite Stiff even though I told him it would not fit his swing. Traded it back to me saying he was hitting it dead straight but was losing distance [ya think?] for a Python Powerlink test driver I had built.) Your right, Lyle. One of the better looking square heads out there. I will get it shafted up eventually, but it won't be the Blueboard now.

 

[footballking732]

wow, if you guys are calling that a steal, you wont believe what i paid for mine a week or 2 ago...

i paid $43 for an r7 TP 15*, in like new condition, with an R300 shaft... $17 to pull the shaft(work done by Dicks) and put in an already spined Diamana Redboard 73X, which i bought of ebay for $43 also..

and yes, its .335 hosel